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Radiator ?


guy_geo

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How many cores does the stock radiator on my 72 Z has?

Which swap from another Z with 3 or 4 cores should I use?

Is it long to do and is it kinda custom fit?

Mine on my car looks (dry), so I think it would be a good idea to change it and/or have it rebuilt before this summer?

What do you suggesst guys?:confused:

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I haven't done this on a 240 but have on a 1200 coupe.

The standard rad has 2 cores.

Victoria British have 3 core units for sale....but they cost$$$. The other option that I have done is take your old rad to a rad shop and get them to swap out the old 2 core for a new 3 core.

Mine worked a treat (on my 1200) and I got to support a local business.

Just my 2pence worth.

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yep, znz is right.

are you having trouble with the current radiator? In Montreal, i can't see the need to upgrade, unless you'll be running AC all the timeLOL

Here in NY i replaced one of mine with a 2 row from JC whitney (aka Carparts.com) about 9 years ago- was cheap & still fully functional- never have a problem with overheating, cuz it never gets too hot here for more than a week. I imagine you'll be in the same (or worse) boat..

Now if you were in the desert, thats another story..Good luck! JA

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I had the radiator shop make mine three row some years ago.The more surface area the faster/better the cooling.I always go more rows every time I have to redo a radiator in all my cars.It goes right on.No problems.I much prefer that to an over flow tank as it's kinda like a built in tank huh?I think an upgrade to 3,new thermostat,hoses,coolant and cap is an excellent prep for summer.I read that when the car reaches normal temp the "antifreeze"sticks to the walls of the coolant passages.When the car cools it unsticks.The sticking acts as a insulator from heat transfer to the motor.Each time the car cools,the "sticking "process becomes weaker.Therefore if you never turned your car off,you would never need to replace your coolant!Thats why you see those cars on the side of the road on hot days.Worn out coolant.Even though the tester shows it will protect from freezing.They are two different things.Another odd thing is a 50/50 coolant/water mix is the norm.Some think more coolant is better.Pure antifreeze will freeze before the 50/50 mix!Oh yeah,I alway store my old hoses under my spare tire.You never know.Their is a fellow 240'er that was able to get home from the blue ridge parkway (middle of nowhere)because of that!! Have Fun!!(stay cool!) Daniel

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You will want to replace the thermo.They're cheap.You have to remove it anyway because while the rad. hoses are off you want to backflush the cooling system.That means run a garden hose with good high pressure from the top hose and let it run out the bottom.The coolant normally runs the other direction.The backflush is like if you rub a fish one way it smooth but backwards its rough.This gets the rough out.As for the need or not for three rows.The cost is not much more than 2. Cool is good.In the event of a waterpump/hose leak you have a little more "get home fluid".Trust me in the future odds are you'll say glad I did it before you say I regret it.Also please check previous post about thermo housing broken bolts it will save you alot of grief. Have fun!! Daniel

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I have a four core radiator that the original owner installed. Have been in 105 degree heat, four lane backups, stop and sit in

Baltimore, New York city and Washington. The indicator moved one needle width higher. As soon as I was moving again the indicator returned to normal (between 1/4 and 1/2). The car

originally had a/c which I removed.

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I've installed a much bigger brand new V8 radiatior in my 240z, it fits in perfectly. cost me $80 bucks, but looks much better, and works better too. keeps everything nice and cool. i did have to move it up a little, about an inch away from the fan, the first one i installed i replaced after the fan shredded into it on high RPM and problably because the engine mounts gave out and and the engine moved around a bit. but everything is fine now.

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Guy_geo, I wish to add to your radiator issue something we perhaps overlooked.You said your rad. was dry.FIRST! find the leak! It could be a loose clamp/split hose or leaking heater valve at worst a leak at your head gasket that gets in your oil.I doubt that but I realized I overlooked the basics.Also a bad rad.cap can allow a" leak"overflow enough to appear dry. The fan clutch should be tested.It is easy to spin by hand when the car is cold.When the car is normal temp ,and the carOFF!!You should NOT be able to move it easy(someone help me).I have used the flex fan for years and have no fan clutch.Although I still believe the info. in my earlier post to be a good thing at any time.I wouldn't like for you to go though the motions only to find the problem still there.Do it 'cause it's a good thing!! Have fun!! Daniel

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