Custom shifter knob

[hls30.com]

Clear coating is frequently problematic, Silver is pretty chemically reactive, and suitable topcoats are not very durable-that is why most sterling and silver plate is not topcoated-sort of like finishing wood-urethane is very durable, but is very hard to repair well, orange shellac is not nearly as durable, but is quite easy to repair well.

Will

[steveo77]

i made a custom shift knob. Used a small piston out of a lawnmower. Attached a bolt with the same thread pattern as the shifter inside the piston and she screws right on. Looking into getting a z ingraved on the top. I think it turned out very nice. Feels great too.

[hls30.com]

What about a picture?

Will

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by matria

One of the ideas I had is to cut out a copy of the Z emblem from sheet silver, about 3/4" high, and inlay it in the top of the knob. Possibly try to inlay a version of a 5 spd pattern.

Skip

To avoid the issues with a Silver emblem (discussed in prior posts) I was wondering if using Stainless Steel for an emblem might be an alternative?

[hls30.com]

Carl, Stainless would work, but it is harder to machine and to cast.

Most of the emblems I have seen are cast or machined brass or Zamac and then nickel plated. Once the nickel is on, chrome is not too far away. The base metal can be soft to make it easier to form, if a somewhat thick-relative to cosmitic plate-layer of chrome is put on, No one would ever be the wiser.

Will

[matria]

Will,

The pictures should be posted by Sat. am. I ended up using 1/2 x 1/2 Al rod. Drilling and taping and then epoxy that into the burl. I chucked an exhaust man. bolt in my lathe, screwed on the blocks and turned 3 knobs. Came out pretty nice if I do say so myself. Put the second coat of finish on this morning, 3 more to go. I got some sheet nickel that I am going to play with and see if I can cut something out and get it inlayed.

[hls30.com]

I did move the foundry furnace to the new place today. I have yet to figure out where to put it. I expect it to be useful for enameling too.

I am anxious to see those pictures!

Will

[Zedrally]

In answer to your Silver problem, can I suggest that you have it Rhodium Plated. This will stop any tarnish forming and according to the density you have it plated may last a very, very long time.

However, you could consider a lower carat White Gold, prefrably one of Nickel alloy, depending on size it may not be cheap, but will last the next 40 years +.

MOM

[hls30.com]

Those are good material suggestions, but not good value suggestions-Actually the pieces could be made of lead , and treated for hard chrome plating. I have even melted away the lead and made a chrome shell, but the plate has to be pretty thick...

Strangely enough, I have a reaction to gold, and actually had my wedding band rhodium plated to narrow down the cause. It did not stop the reaction. I always knew I was special...or was that wierd...

Will

[Zedrally]

What carat is your wedder, I have had customers that have had similar reactions with lower carated golds.

Perhaps Platinum is the answer!!!!!

Incidentally there is a Tarnish Resistant Silver Alloy available [at least here in Oz, contact Apecs Casting], they apparently use silicon at some stage of manufacture.

MOM

[hls30.com]

Started at 10, went to 24 and punted with the plating!

Still have no idea why, but I can only wear jewelry(ring, watch,etc) for a few hours before small blisters form, the area takes several days to recover, and will ultimately open if I don't remove the offending article soon enough-built in bio-anti-ostentation-the money looks better on the Z anyway!

Will

[hls30.com]

Thank goodness I don't react to tool steel and chrome! I couldn't touch my tools!

Will