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engine opinions


ta240

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I'm planning on replacing the engine in my 73. When I got the car it had the 2.4 and 4 speed. It then got a used 2.8 with Automatic Transmission (long story don't ask :) The used 2.8 is very tired and leaking oil. Its time to switch it back to a manual transmission also.

The 2.8 has round exhaust ports and my stock manifold is still on the car which is square (I'm sure that doesn't do much for performance) I can get a 2.8 rebuild with square ports.

Although comparing a 2.4 with a 4 speed to a 2.8 with A/T isn't a real good comparison I do miss the high revving 2.4 engine. It used to pull pretty strong right up to the redline. I'm not sure if it had any mods prior to my getting it though.

I like the low end power on the 2.8 (especially with the A/T) but it doesn't pull much past 5,000.

Unfortunately I definately don't have the time, (or skill and patience) to do the rebuild myself so I don't get to do all the fun custom combinations I keep reading about on here. My current options are an ATK rebuild, Jasper Engines rebuild or possibly but not real likely a rebello engine (just way more than I can afford). Tossed around the idea of the ATK and just putting a stage 2 cam in it before installing it. Figure that might mess up the warranty though.

The car is a daily driver with A/C and gets a 100+ mile commute every day so it needs to get decent gas milage and be very drivable. Not looking at any track time and I'm not looking to beat anyone off the line at a stop light.

am I nuts to consider going back to a 2.4? ATK said as long as the core value is the same the core doesn't have to be the same as the rebuilt.

Not looking to start a war on what is best, just hoping for some opinions on the different options.

thanks!

Trevor

Sacramento, CA

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It all comes down to three things . Money , HP , and torque. There is no magic about high rpms. Its where the engine builds the HP . You can install a cam in the L-28 and it will make the hp at any RPM you think you need. It all costs money and with high HP , the mileage goes down. If you want a good mileage car to drive on the hiway go back to the stock engine weather it is the 280 or the 240 . I have been gitting 23 mpg with my L-24 . I doubt vary much my built F-54 will come close to that , but it will make a lot more hp. Gary my 2cts

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hey trevor, I just built an L28 (F-54)with flat top pistons N-42 head with SU carbs and a mild cam and performance valve train. Its a blast. I've put about 800 miles on it and so far it ROCKS. I also use it as an everyday driver and at only 800 miles on the rebuild Im getting about 20 mpg's. I also have the 280z 5 speed in there. I think with a little more tuning and engine break in I should be able to get that MPG up a little. So in MHO my build is the best:D . Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

Rock on Z people!

Hey Gary.

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Hi Gary:

I have both. A pretty stock 72 with the original L24 (now at 71K miles)

Another 72 with L28, triple webers, cam etc etc etc..

Driving the two is worlds different. I'm sure it's a personal thing, but I just can't drive the 72 with the L28 without wanting to go ever and ever faster.. Driving the stock 72 is actual more "pleasurable" both around town and on longer highway trips. Driving the 72 with the L28 is more "exciting" ;-)

As Gary said... it all depends on how much money you want to spend... no strike that, now much money "you are willing" to spend.

Faced with the decision you outline - today, I would buy and install a rebuilt L28 Turbo engine. At first I'd keep it an all stock turbo... then if I wanted more HP... I'd go to some minor aftermarket mod.'s

On a more limited up-front budget -- I'd put a rebuilt L28 turbo engine in, then run the SU's... holding the Engine management system, Turbo Intake, Turbo etc for later, If I wanted more power...

With an OEM rebuild on an L28 ET -- you would seem to have a lot more options in the future and a very nice engine to begin with... The lower compression of the turbo engine would allow you to run regular gas for daily commutes... So you might not have the initial power of the higher compression Non-turbo engine.... but you'd still be ahead of the original L24 and with a bright future..

I figure if you are going to spend $2K on an ATK.. might as well spend a few dollars more and have a good stock rebuild done on an L28-ET.

FWIW,

Carl

Carl Beck

Clearwater,FL USA

http://ZHome.com

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Originally posted by Carl Beck

Faced with the decision you outline - today, I would buy and install a rebuilt L28 Turbo engine. At first I'd keep it an all stock turbo... then if I wanted more HP... I'd go to some minor aftermarket mod.'s

On a more limited up-front budget -- I'd put a rebuilt L28 turbo engine in, then run the SU's... holding the Engine management system, Turbo Intake, Turbo etc for later, If I wanted more power...

Carl Beck

Clearwater,FL USA

http://ZHome.com

Unsure what your talking about with the SU's running a turbo aswell as engine management?

can you explain this again for me?

I'd personally go with the L24 for a daily car they rev nicer and seem to be easier to drive in a manual car.

However if your rebuilding maybe carl is right then again turbo's can complicate things.

Gav

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Originally posted by Gav240z

Unsure what your talking about with the SU's running a turbo aswell as engine management?

can you explain this again for me?

I'd personally go with the L24 for a daily car they rev nicer and seem to be easier to drive in a manual car.

However if your rebuilding maybe carl is right then again turbo's can complicate things.

Gav

I think Carl was saying start with a turbo engine and pull off all the turbo parts and use SU's - so that if you wanted to you could go back to the turbo setup easily.

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Gav240-Z wrote:

>Unsure what your talking about with the SU's running a turbo aswell

>as engine management?

>can you explain this again for me?

Mperdue is correct...

I'm saying that if you are going to rebuild (rings/bearings/seals/water pumps/engine gasket kits/ etc) any "L" series engine - and you you have an option at this point - then it makes the most sense to spend the money on the engine that offers you the most future options for additional HP.

I'd rebuild an L28-ET retaining the turbo pistons, turbo oil pump, turbo head bolts etc - but then either install that short block with an N42 head (with a fresh valve job) for a boost in compression - and run the 70-72 SU's and stock exhaust manifold... Very streetable, strong engine... with more torque/HP than the original L24.

Then I'd set the P90 head, FI intake, Turbo and Turbo Exhaust manifold aside, along with the turbo engine management system, wiring harness etc - for future use - if desired - or when funding became available. Once I had everything ready - I'd take a weekend and do the upgrade..

If I could afford it right up front - I'd swap in the complete L28-ET right from the beginning. There are some re-wiring issues to address but it's been done lots of times by lots of people.

If I could find a good running 82/83 280ZX Turbo - with rusted body or damaged body as a parts car - I wouldn't bother with a rebuild at all. Maybe just do a fresh valve job and run it that way. Swap in the L28-ET, the 3.9 R200 and use the B/W 5spd. if it was good..

The L24 is a sweet little engine for sure - but if you don't have the original matching number block - might as well go for more torque/hp while your at it.. or at least plan for that...

FWIW,

Carl

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Much clearer agree totally.

I am actually doing the same thing with my car currently.

I have a spare P90 F54 in need to TLC and rebuild.

However in the car I have a F54 with the early E88 head.

Port work, Cam etc..

I am trying to source ZX Turbo parts but nobody in the US wants to ship the gear to AUS not on Ebay anyway.

All i have is the head and block of a Turbo car.

Gav:ermm:

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thanks for the ideas, it looks like I'll have awhile to decide as the next project on the Z has moved from being the engine to floor pan replacement. Severe rust on the passenger side has left it in pretty bad shape. A screwdriver poked right through the frame rail and it is actually cracked in one section. Haven't gotten brave enough to look at the drivers side.

On the good side any job on the car that gives me an excuse to buy new tools isn't all bad :)

-Trevor

http://www.geocities.com/z-car

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