Clutch is Leaking

[PUSHER]

Story: was at a driving event and in the middle I notice my clutch is engaging really wierd, I had to push it all the way down to get it to engage. I pull into the pits, its very very low on clutch fluid so I fill it up. I go back out, its spongy then starts to stiffen up. Then I go dry again, and can not shift at all. So I add fluid and Bleed the clutch, This works until I notice it going spongy again. I call it quits then.

That is whats leaking, for reference, that picture is taken upside down. The J on Japan is facing the rear of the car. When I push down the clutch a jet of fluid will squirt out of their.

It leaks out of that rubber boot.

[Ed]

There is a rubber seal on the output shaft that seals the shaft to the bore. Your seal is no good. You can buy just the seal and replace it yourself. Make sure you clean the bore completely. If you have any corrosion on the bore face then you will need to get a new slave cylinder. I would recommend getting a new slave cylinder to be on the safe side.

[PUSHER]

Just buy a new clutch slave cylinder? Is that what its called? This is for a 76 280z btw.

http://www2.maximumautoparts.com/parts/parts1/maximumautoparts/wizard.jsp?year=1976&make=NI&model=280-Z-001&category=I&part=Clutch+Slave+Cylinder

that?

[dattozed]

I think the cost is what 12-18 dollars. Much better in the long run.

[PUSHER]

is that the piece I need?

[mdbrandy]

Note, however, that the picture shown appears to have the early, adustable type pushrod, which is different than all slave cylinders after, I think, about mid 1971. Later cars went with a non-adjustable rod, and the fork did not have a hole in it. You need the slave cylinder with the adjustable rod, or it won't work with your clutch fork.

[panchovisa]

Mark, I believe that the rod and fork Pusher has now will work with a new slave cylinder.

The rod is only "attached" to slave cylinder by the rubber boot. Just pull the boot off new slave, remove non-adjustable rod, slip in adjustable rod, and pop boot and rod back onto new slave cylinder.

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by panchovisa

Mark, I believe that the rod and fork Pusher has now will work with a new slave cylinder.

The rod is only "attached" to slave cylinder by the rubber boot. Just pull the boot off new slave, remove non-adjustable rod, slip in adjustable rod, and pop boot and rod back onto new slave cylinder.

Ah. I hadn't considered that. So you can buy the new style cylinder and use either kind of rod? That's good to know...since I have one car of each type :classic: .