I'm about knee deep in my auto to 5spd swap and have a question. Is it possible to drop the tranny without removing the exhaust? Don't really want to drop exhaust since that opens a whole new can of worms. Pretty sure that exhaust studs on manifold will break if I torque on them.

It looks possible but probably a big pain in the arse. Anybody done this with the exhaust still in the car. Thanks, Chuck

You might be able to do it with header still attached, but you will want to get the rest of exhaust out of the way. Look at your situation (don't know exactly what exhaust you have) and imagine that tranny has to move backwards about 5 inches (maybe farther to clear headder collectors) to get input shaft out of crank pilot/clutch/pressure plate. Will bellhousing clear exhaust to move down/up into and out of transmission tunnel? I have found that bellhousing is a tight fit in tunnel without a header to manuver around.

Right now there is a auto in the car so maybe I can get that out and then take a look. With the torque converter unbolted I shouldn't need much room to drop the tranny down and out.

getting the 5spd in might be tight.

I just pulled the engine and trans as a unit . then you can do the engine bay while the mill is out. You can clean and paint the rad and the engine. All will be fresh and looking good. :classic:

Cut it out. I don't need anyone fueling my "while I'm in there" itis. Seriously, I figure thats not too far down the road.

I think your asking for an agrivated afternoon if you don't take out the exhaust. I did it once with the headers still on and even that got in the way. Do it right and remove the exhaust. You will be glad you did.

Removed the auto tranny today with little difficulty. Left the exhaust connected since I didn't want to pull the exhaust manifold. Pretty sure that those rusted bolts were going to break.

5 spd was pretty easy to get up there but having problems getting splines lined up

I'll see if I can finish it up tomorrow.

While I was in there I noticed that the flywheel bolts and the driveshaft are the same for the auto and the 5spd

Did you use a clutch alignment tool to get clutch disk centered to pilot bearing? If not ,go get one. They are cheap ($10 or less) and svae 3 pounds of sweat!

Just finished swapping trannys last weekend, for the third time! Damn rear counter-shaft bearings!! :tapemouth

I have a 6-2-1 header mated to a custom 2-1/4" exhaust and I never touch the exhaust system when dropping a transmission. I have found that you need to rotate the tranny about a 1/4 turn sometimes, but it just drop right out. If you have a stock exhaust, there should be no clearance issues.

Also, for those of you with an early series I 240, the bell housing on the early 4-speeds is slightly larger than on later transmissions. Makes putting the later 4-speed or 5-speed in a lot easier.

I have been using an alignment tool but not having much luck.

Kmack, any tricks for getting the tranny on quickly. Getting tired of bench pressing this thing

For what it's worth to anyone who wants to take on this task as you already know you will need the peddles from a standard. I just removed the ones from my parts car last night and it's really quite easy, took maybe 15 minutes.

The brake peddle it held in place by one bolt at the top which is where it pivots, this is removed from the right side of the peddle (you must also unhook the return spring and remove the pin/bolt which attaches it to the brake booster).

The clutch peddle is just the same except that the bolt is on the left side. This presents a problem as the driver's side fresh air vent is in the way of getting a socket wrench up there, this part is only held on by 3 philips screws and is easily removed with a stubby philips screwdriver. Then remove the pivot bolt, the spring, and the pin/bolt attaching the peddle to the clutch master cylinder.

That's it!

If you want the gas peddle it is held in by 4 philips screws. Remove them and unattach the thorttle linkage (which just pops off) and you're done with removing that one.

Hope this is able to help someone out there.

Originally posted by getrdone

I have been using an alignment tool but not having much luck.

Kmack, any tricks for getting the tranny on quickly. Getting tired of bench pressing this thing

I just swapped in a 5 speed for a 4 speed last night. Piece of Cake. I use a 1/2 drive extension with masking tape wrapped around it for an alignment too.

I drag the tranny under the car.

I put a floor jack under the car and wrestle the tranny on the jack pad. Position the tranny on the jack in such a way as it doesn't try to fall off immediately when you let go of it.

I jack up the tranny and get the input shaft in the pressure plate. At this point it is sometimes necessary to put a jack stand under the tranny if you run out of height in the jack. Add a short length(s) of 2X4(s) between the tranny and jack to get enough lift height out of the floor jack. After getting the tranny input shaft into the clutch, proceed to line up the tranny and motor by raising/lowering the tail so the input shaft of the tranny is basically lined up and parallel with the crankshaft. and push it onto the motor until there is about 1/2" to go. You have it thru the clutch disk at that point and if you have a tight pilot bearing, tighten each of the tranny 4 bolts a little at a time until the tranny is snug to the block. Put the rear tranny support on at that point.

I have been doing it this way for about 35 years. I also have the fancy tranny jack adapter and have found it to be more trouble than it is worth.