Everything I have read indicates proper bleeding order to be the master cylinder first, then from farthest wheel cylinder to the nearest. That's also the way I have done it for 35 years without any problems.

i.e. Master, RR, LR, RF, LF.

No...just the threads--like you would on pipe threads. One of the main functions of 'speed bleeders' is they have nylon (or equivalent) thread areas that do not allow air to sneak back in through the threads. The one-way valves are a nice thought, but the same can be achieved by elevating the pot you are bleeding into above the bleeder screw. The biggest air-entrance area during bleeding is the threads. Seal the threads and this is eliminated. With a vacuum gun, it becomes really obvious. Try to bleed with 'plain' threads and you get air all day long. Seal them and you get straight fluid.

steve

Hi Guys,

Well I think I got it fixed over the weekend. Went back and bleed the mast again. Got a ton of air out of the rear MC tube. Took 2Many's advice and adjusted the rear brakes tighter. Bleed more and it feels pretty good now. Drove it around a little bit and it brakes very nicely. It has a good firm pedal feel now. Got to brake in the pads/rotors more before I can really see what the upgrade is like.

I don't feel quite as bad about this, since my buddy Bill, who has the same brake set up is having real problems bleeding his brakes too. I think the extra pistons must really trap a lot of air in there.

Thanks for all the tips and tricks. They really helped.

Marty