I got a 1973 240z. Its been sitting around since the late 80's and rarely droven since then. Been fixed up a few times and driven a little. Its been about 6 yrs now since anyone has touched it and been just left out in the field. Its in overall good shape, not too much rust. Anyway one of the pullys won't move at all. I "think" its the air pump pully? Its the one on the opposite side of the alternator on the bottom. Its the only pully you can actually adjust by loosing bolts. When I decided to push the car into the garage and fix it up, it had no belts at all on there. I got all new belts and put them on there ( I think their correct? anyone know of a website with the diagram for belts?) Right now it doesn't start. But thats because of the battery we think. Not enough charge.

When we turn it over, the belt just moves around it and the pully doesn't move at all. Would that cause it not to start? If that is, any suggestions on how to get that moving?

thanks for the help.

dude if you need a diagram to show you the path for a zed belt you shoulnt be looking under the bonnet of your car and the air pump just take it off

cheers doug

I try not to answer posts like this because there are so many possibilities. Is that belt binding on the frozen pulley? If so, that would make it hard to start. You're not even sure if it's the air pump. Sitting for six years? There are so many possible issues that could cause the car not to start. Sometimes, you can open up the air pump and free it up unless the bearings are toast. But, based on your description of the problem, it's like a doctor trying to diagnose over the phone with a patient that doesn't have an understanding of the symtoms.

I'm just going to throw in some ideas.

You need to change the Oil/filter before you even try to start the car.

If everything's good the car will start with a frozen pulley. You will just burn up your brand new belt.

No, a frozen pulley will not keep the car from starting.

After 6 years, all the rubber is dry-rotten cracked and even melted. All the belts and hoses should be changed before you try to start the car.

If your just trying to kick it off. You probably could do that. But by any means don't expect the car to move on it's own.

You need to but a battery charger for your garage and a good battery. The best thing might be a battery maintainer that stays with the car.They will expand the life of a rarely used batt.

There is so much more.

Please Explain what you are trying to do. What sounds you hear. What you want to do with the car. What you have done to try and get the car started. When you tried to start the car what did it do (which sounds and where were they coming from).

-Brandon

Thanks for the suggestions, found out it was the air pump and it was rusted together. Tried putting a belt on it to see if that would make it move but just ended up killing the battery b/c it was working too hard to budge it. Ended up just taking it out. And as for not starting, was b/c the float in the carbs was stuck and wasn't putting fuel into the engine. Cleaned out both of the carbs and it started pretty good.

Also as far as changing oil, replacing hoses,wires ect, already done that, just figured it wasn't important to talk about that. Planning on bleeding the brakes too, the brake fluid is jelly

One problem I'm having now tho is letting it idle when I first start it up. I have to start it up and keep the RPM's at about 1500 to warm the engine up and then it'll eventually move. Took about 20 mins once of keeping it at 1500 to finaly keep it from die'ing when I try to move it or idle. I had to increase the idle to about 1000rpm so it doesn't die. Any suggestions on makin it idle better? One part I haven't replaced yet is the old spark plugs, plannin on doing that soon once I get some $. Bad spark plugs causing that?

Thx for the help again

The old plugs are probably miss firing like crazy. A cheep fix to this is to take a wire brush to them. Make sure they are gaped right. They should be pre gapped. The wires should be fine as long as a mouse has not gotten to them. Check for corrosion. Check inside the dizzy. Make sure everything's right. Points might need to be cleaned.

Z cars are cold nature. Use the choke to keep the engine running until worm.

You've made the first big jump. Getting the car started and moving.

-Brandon

thats not uncomman for a zed not to run when cold my car wont idle until i get it up to temp and is a bastard to start cold and so does my mates 2+2 so dont worry about it to much and yere make sure you do the points and you have to keep them up to a zed..

cheers doug

do a tune up then see how it idles but a 73 with flat tops will take a bit to get to a good idle speed as well as most carbed z's