Jump to content
Email logins are now active ×

IGNORED

Sump Design


Recommended Posts

Drunkenmaster,

It looks fine, except for the shallow area. Your crank will be wipping up an oil foam.

The shallow area should be filled with slots that will take the oil to lower level away from crank. On the "downwind" side of the slots should be a "wiper" (raised sheet metal blade angled to catch spray off crank and direct it to lower level of pan through slots and then to deep sump). This is usually called a windage tray.

See if the maker is interested in doing it right, if not I'd pass because you'll have more oil control problems (lost HP and reliabilaty) than the larger capacity will cure. Sorry, but you asked.

Any racers care to add anything I didn't mention?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in my non-professional opinion just what i read online or in books the second design is far better as panchovisa was saying you don't want the crank to whip up the oil as the oil turns to a creamy like substance and stops acting like oil should.

This one allows for oil to drain to the bottom but also has a tray to ensure that there is some oil to be sucked up by the pump.

www.240z.id.au he has a sump design which i like even if it is a L28 Turbo it's still the same concepts. :cheeky:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

drunkenmaster,

The second design has the windage tray design I was talking about. The first design could be redesigned to also incorporate it, if the builder cares too.

Most people don't know that a proper sump can free up horsepower lost by "drag" of the crank/rods trying to spin thru suspended oil mist in the crankcase.

There are amazing aerodynamic forces in play, especially in stroker engines at high revs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im always serious LOL

Its my only worry as i hammer around a long corner watching the oil pressure gauge, waiting for it to suck up a gut full of air.

It might never happen but id like a bigger capacity sump all the same.

Sorry I don't have any good pics of the sump, but I used the front section of a RB30 powered Nissan Patrol 4WD, the centre of a VL Commodore and a shortened rear section from the VL, three sections and no leaks, just good luck I think.

Steven

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both are on the $500 mark.

Sump 1: By CRS and you need to give an exchange sump.

Sump 2: You need to pay shipping from NZ, which may not be too bad depending on customs. Shipping for my motor was very reasonable, 1/3rd of the customs price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.