$1300 for a 1973 240z?

Whats good on it:

no rust, straight frame, solid frame rails

Engine runs well

suspension is solid

complete, unmolested

not so good:

auto tranny ( would swap anyway )

horrible paint... cracked scratched etc....

interrior is mostly destroyed.... would have to be replaced.

240z's are all over the map in cost. And I know this may be a hard question to answer without pics ( don't have any sorry ) but does 1300 seem like a reasonable number in this case? Thanks

The "good" out weighs the "not so good" in your comment. Hard to tell without pictures, but $1300 doesn't seem too, too bad. Explain to the seller about the interior issues, offer him a grand, he just might bite. Good luck

Vicky

Thats what I'm thinking. I really just am looking for a solid frame and go from there, but I think this may be the closest i get. Most around this price range are hurting in terms of rust....

Thanks

If the seats have good foam , to recover them less than $200.00 . Carpet kit about the same as with the interior + door pannels and head liner. Paint will run to four figures if you want a good job and have all the work done , providing there is no body damage. lack of rust is the important thing here . As for the auto-trans , that is a matter of openion . One thing it seems that the cars with them are the ones that are being found to be in the best shape , because they were not as abused in the past. The '73 has the B tranny and is rebuildable and strong , for a driver. If you have asperations of driving on the track , different story. Gary:classic:

Originally posted by Corganx33

$1300 for a 1973 240z?

Whats good on it:

no rust, straight frame, solid frame rails

Engine runs well

suspension is solid

complete, unmolested

not so good:

auto tranny ( would swap anyway )

horrible paint... cracked scratched etc....

interrior is mostly destroyed.... would have to be replaced.

240z's are all over the map in cost. And I know this may be a hard question to answer without pics ( don't have any sorry ) but does 1300 seem like a reasonable number in this case? Thanks

What are you trying to do? Is this going to be a restoration project or a daily driver?

Sounds like the car could be a good candidate for both. 1,000-1300 for the car is not that bad.

I'm looking into restoration. Not back to show quality, but into a nice enough quality that could be driven when I wanted, and brought to meets or other social Z gatherings without being too embarassed *grin*. You can translate that to read, I'd love to restore it back to show quality... but I'm going to make a few mistakes along the way. This is a first time learning as I go project. My main goal is to start with a solid carbody , preferably stock, that does need a lot of work, and see where I can go with getting it back into respectable shape.

I've evaluated my situation pretty well, and I know that I can handle engine/drivetrain/suspension work. Interior work is no problem, but frame and rust work really require the availability of a body shop and someone qualified to handle that type of work. I have an engineering degree, but I think I'm going to pass on trying to fix a rusted out frame ( especially since I'm the one driving it later )

The days of being able to easly and cheeply "redoing " not restoring these cars has passed, pritty much. Three to four years ago yes. Parts have gotten spendy. Door gaskets and windshield and hatch will run about $200. The little stuff will eat your bank account alive. If prepaired to deal with this , welcome to the infected among us. My advise is to find the most rust free and complete car you can find . You will pay more for it but in the long run believe me you will be money ahead. Now parts cars are going for what a driver sold for 3 yrs ago. :classic: