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What needles should i use


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... If you want to get hands on and save a buck or 2 we can do the Tune Up Kit ZT 150 for $150 and ship ZT110 for $175. You then with the help of the video, can clean up & swap all your stuff over to the new bodies (with the bearings butterflys and shafts already installed).

The downside of this is your carbs are only going to be a clean as you can get them, the linkage won't be all re-plated and dazzling and there is no 3 year warranty.

Shipping on the sets we've done to Australia and NZ is not that bad via Global Priority Mail and the service is 4-6 days. I can't quote shipping without a destination but I know I was surprised how reasonable it was on the orders we have done.

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That's a good price, and with the video you will be saying "I know what I'm doing!" With us we nailed the carb setup the first time. With access to dyno equipment we were able to see aceleration, speedometer check, B.S.F.C. Volumetric Efficiency, O2 sensing with the tail pipe wide band Lambda reading, Fuel pressure and consumption, Volts, RPMs, Temp. and if it is a good dyno they can see all these things under full range loading (simulate road grade ect.) Too much data to handle! But what we saw with the O2 reading out the tail pipe the air fuel ratio was pretty good. I believe you want about a 12: 1 ratio, under that, it is lean and over is rich. People think they can tune a car with feel (seat of your pants), yes you will be close, but for real info it is gona take some modern day tools, computers and software, fuel monitoring systmes to get the data and then turn the screwdrivers and dial in the best performance you can. I'm trying to learning what is good and what is bad, and I can pull a few more horses out of the motor by leaning the carbs down some to get closer to the 12 : 1 ratio but I can also go too far and lean things too much and burn up stuff up too. So I can live with what we have right now. I'm not racing for real, but getting some real fun seat time in for now. I'm like everyone else- on a budget and a do it yourselfer to save money.

You need to know what is going on with the SUs if you own SUs cause most shops and help from people at the track are no help at all.

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Originally posted by Chino 240Z

But what we saw with the O2 reading out the tail pipe the air fuel ratio was pretty good. I believe you want about a 12: 1 ratio, under that, it is lean and over is rich.

I always thought that for AFR (Air Fuel Ratio), you wanted to get as close to 14:1 as possible. Maybe I'm wrong, but this is what I've been shooting for. Anybody have any input regarding this? The info could help both of us...

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I'm sorry my finger was following the wrong line across the print out, I'm one notch off. Here is a general AFR chart that K&N puts out. Yes I think 14.0 to 14.7 is good.

Gasoline: 17.1 16.0 15.1 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.0 13.2 12.1

Alcohol: 7.6 7.1 6.7 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.1 5.8 5.3

Propane 17.9 16.8 15.9 15.6 15.6 15.6 15.6 15.0 14.0 13.0

so we are actually in the High 14's. and once it jumped up to the 15's but went back down as the rpm increased.

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