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Quantity of POR-15?


gema

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I searched, but if this has been asked before, please delete this thread.

How much POR-15 should I expect to use? I'm getting paid on Friday and am buying all my stripping/POR-15 supplies, as on Saturday the fun begins. I will be doing the entire car (underbody, exterior, maybe even the interior if I get motivated). As I've never used it before, I don't know how much to buy, and I'd rather buy it all at one time. Thanks in advance!

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I've never heard of anyone doing the whole car with POR15 so you might have a hard time getting an answer from someone who really knows. I just finished doing the floorpans using their floorpan kit and a pint easily will do both floorpans. POR15 claims that a pint is good for 50 sq. ft. Since the price goes down with quantity you might consider just buying a gallon for $114.

http://www.por15.com/howMuch.asp

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Originally posted by gema

I searched, but if this has been asked before, please delete this thread.

How much POR-15 should I expect to use? I'm getting paid on Friday and am buying all my stripping/POR-15 supplies, as on Saturday the fun begins. I will be doing the entire car (underbody, exterior, maybe even the interior if I get motivated). As I've never used it before, I don't know how much to buy, and I'd rather buy it all at one time. Thanks in advance!

Gema:

Have you read about the application of POR product? Is the car completely stripped of paint, and primer down to bare metal? I only ask because you say you "may" do the interior. POR15 must be applied to bare, properly prepared metal. If you put POR15 over paint or primer, you are wasting your time and money as it will not protect your car from rust.

You may want to talk w/ EScanlon about your plan to POR15 the exterior of the car as well. If I remember correctly he recommends NOT using POR on exterior body panels that will be painted.

BTW, if you plan to apply the POR15 by spraying, you will need a very sophisticated breathing system to avoid poisoning yourself. POR15 is a great product but used improperly it can really hurt your health.

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Thanks for the heads-up on the exterior hazards, I hadn't read that. I suppose I'll just be doing the underbody and backs of body panels (that I can get to). The car will be stripped to bare metal, and then will be Marine Cleaned/Metal Readied. I have a very, very nice respirator and will be wearing it. I feel like such a nub...thought you all did EVERYTHING with POR-15. Only the parts you can't see??

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I have covered the under side of my 240 from the front to where the floor turns up at the diff, I did the floor pans in the foot wells . I sprayed in side the rockers and doglegs , painted the back side of the fenders and the wheel side of the inner fender , front only . I shot por all inside the back fender area from the doglegs up around the fender / wheel area and where the fuel vapor tank was and across the hatch lower pannel and the cavity where the antenna is located. I also painted the spair tire well and shot inside the doors the front suspention is painted and the total fuel tank. I used 2 & 1/3 qts. of gloss POR . About 1/2 gal of Mariene clean and about the same of the Metal ready. IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED to paint the exterior surfaces that will later be painted with the top coat , color of the car. I however did use the por paint in some areas of the engine bay . I have removed the batt . tray support and cleaned up the surface rust and PORed the whole area and any bare metal any where on the car except the out side . I used Tie-coat primer on the engine bay so the finish will bond . I recommend that you buy no larger than qts. of the paint , it will save you $ in the long run. It is exreemly important to follow the directions for preping the metal. USE THE PROPER MASK AND IN A WELL VENTED AREA !!! Do not breathe any more fumes than necessary . If the surface is not preped properly the paint WILL NOT STICK AT ALL ! Once the POR is cured nothing will touch it , not acetone or any thinner. Clean up of skin and tools , I use laquer thinner but before it is dry. If I can help send me a email. Gary :classic:

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Gema:

POR strongly recommends at least "Organic Vapor Particulate Respirators and Goggles, or a Fresh Air Hood. NIOSH/MSHA approved if spraying. The product gives off some sort of cyanide compounds that can do serious and permanent damage to your lungs and eyes.

Safety first.

FWIW, the POR distributor I order my products from is very helpful with question of mine, recommendations, all sorts of advice. Don't be afraid to ask your distributor anything.

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... and check out www.zerorust.com. Zero Rust is another choice for doing the same job as well as POR for half the money and without the health risks (no isocyanates). There are 10 colors as well as aerosols and the product is a whole lot more user friendly than the moisture cured Urethanes. Believe me we know both technologies very well.

For comments from users go to www.paintucation.com or www.autobodystore.com to see what guys that have used both have to say. Both of these web sites have excellent BBS for paint and body related questions too.......

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If you are interested there is a great little "gun " that is only $6.00 at harbor freight that works great for shooting the POR into the hidden cavities there product number is P-37346 . When you reseal the POR paint can , use two layers of plastic wrap between the lid and the can. Other wise if the paint gets on the two metal surfaces and cures the lid is on permanetly. Your filter mask will not vary likely protect you completely from Diisocyanate , check the label and use good ventellation. My next door neighbor is a kidney specialest and he advised me to drink plenty of fluids after using this stuff and your body will pass it off with no problem . I wear latex gloves also , this paint loves skin if it is allowed to dry on the skin it is permanent untill it wears off. If you want any more info. that I might be able to pass on , let me know. By the way escanlon and I are working on the car together. Gary

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The answers that are here pretty well cover it.

I have used POR15 under bodywork and paint.

For presentation PAINT to be successful you must use tiecoat primer, followed by a primer/sealer/surfacer, and then the color coat.

To use filler, use a thin layer of POR15, and let it get a thick skin on it, and apply the filler to it-yes, before the POR15 is completely hardened! Do not sand it until the POR15 is completely hardened!

It is easier to spot apply POR15 to areas that have had rust that are going to be painted, than to the entire car. POR15 has a tendancy(at least in high humidity) to retain brush strokes, and for the finished paint to look right , the resultant striations must be properly filled.

Will

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