New Door Seals don't work!

[JCTV]

I am very close to completing my restore of my '73 240Z. However when I installed new doors seals, (a complete rubber kit from Z Therapy), I can not get the doors to close.

Are the seals bad or am I doing somthing wrong?

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

[2ManyZs]

Most people have reported having to slam their doors after replacing the door seals. The old seals were worn out, someone may have re-adjusted the door at one time or another and with the added thickness of having new seals it may not let the door latch properly. Try adjusting the striker plate on the door jamb. It may take a while for the new seals to "seat" or conform to the door opening. It's possible it may take a couple adjustments to get it right, and may have to be done again after you have used the car for a while.

[visionary]

Jeff,

Check out the Weatherstrip thread at the beginning of this forum. I have had full rubber replacement from MSA on my Driver door for a year and the door still won't close completly flush to the rear quarterpanel. Am thinking about trying some test strips on the other door that are"trimmed" so as to reduce the physical thickness of the replacement rubber...

will update

Keith

[santamaus]

How do you remove the glue and stray bits of old weatherstripping? Is there a solvent for this? I don't want to scrape it away and end up damaging the paint underneath it.

Thanks,

Chris

[DakotaZ]

I had the same problem with the complete kit I received from VB. After time the doors do eventually start to close better. But it is a a pain having to slam the door time and time again at first to get it closed flush.

[Dazza]

How do you remove the glue and stray bits of old weatherstripping? Is there a solvent for this? I don't want to scrape it away and end up damaging the paint underneath it.

Thanks,

Chris

I am also in the process of changing out a rubber (hatch) seal and would also appreciate any input members could offer that would allow removal of the contact cement glue, without affecting the two pack paintwork. Would petrol/gasoline, or kerosine (used in moderation) do the trick ?

Cheers

Darryl

[kmack]

You can use Acetone to soften up the glue and take a rag and wipe it off. It's not easy, takes a bit of work, and you have to be quick because of the evaporation time of Acetone. A dull putty knife will also work to help peel it up some. If the putty knife is dull, it won't harm the paint, and you're still going to cover it up with a new seal anyway, right?

Something else you might try... At Home Depot and other hardware stores, you can get small brass wire brushes, about the size of a large toothbrush. Get one w/ the brass bristles. Use that on the glue and it'll take it right off with out harming the paint. You may have to spend some time every once in awhile cleaning the glue out of the brush, though.

[Mike]

I am very close to completing my restore of my '73 240Z. However when I installed new doors seals, (a complete rubber kit from Z Therapy), I can not get the doors to close.

Are the seals bad or am I doing somthing wrong?

I think you are doing things right. Those door seals are known to be too fat. We have been advising people to just buy the factory door seals for the main doors because they work better.

In fact, I think door seals from a later model 280z will also work. Someone else should back me up on that.

[visionary]

3M makes a weatherstriping adhesive remover. I went out to my garage to find the product code but remembered I had discarded the can earlier this summer. I will try to find the product number. The product should be available any place you can get the 3M yellow "snot" weatherstripping adhesive. It comes in the normal non-descript 3M packaging with the big red 3M logo on it.

Like most of the 3M product it works very well. First apply a liberal amount to the old weather stripping and let sit for about 10-15 minutes. This weakened the bonding enough for me to remove the old "hard" weatherstripping but did not completely remove the old adhesive. Re-apply a liberal amount on the remaining adhesive and let stand again. With a little work and good tools you should be able to scrape and rub the remaining adhesive from the bodywork without damaging the paint.

Note: If you find a supplier with the black 3M adhesive you will unquestionably find the remover as well.

Keith

[visionary]

Mike, I would be interested in any update on the fit of the 280 rubber to the 70-73 240. The weatherstripping I got from MSA had the factory part numbers and stickers on the plastic packaging and the rubber is way to thick. When I do the passenger door I will try some alternative fitting methods, however I don't know when that will be as that rubber is in the garage in Denver and I am in Boise presently.

Thanks,

Keith