4 Strut cartridge installation

[NH-75-Z]

Have purchases 4 Tokico HP cartridges for 75-280.

Made appt. at Import auto shop for installation.

2 weeks later, delivered car...and 3 days later no service

had been performed. Owner, now wants to "discuss"

the enormous job to replace these.

The car has not even been inspected by them, and its

a So. Cali car with no rust on bolts !! I've already changed

all suspension bushings, and even the exhaust manifold

to headpipe bolts came off without pent. oil !!!!

Is the dreaded spindle pins scaring them ??

What labor hours have others paid for changing all

4 struts ???

[2ManyZs]

The spindle pins don't have to be touched if all they are doing is changing the strut cartridges.

Sounds to me like you should pick up the car and take it somewhere that won't try to give you the shaft.

The only special tool needed is a set of decent spring compressors, in fact, the job can be done without a set of compressors (for those of us who have done it many times anyways) and only a couple hand tools.

I think you ought to get in touch with John or Pete with the ZCCNE, they can tell you where to take it, or they might even offer to help you do it yourself.

[Bambikiller240]

Changing the struts is a simple straight forward job. If you did the bushings replacement, you could do the struts yourself.

Are you asking them to replace the spindle pins? It isn't necessary for these to be changed in order to replace the struts, but even if they are to do the pins, it's simple, they just send them out to a machine shop to be pressed out. No Muss, No Fuss.

Never sent work like this out to be done for money.

If they are afraid of the job, find someone else.

JMO

[NH-75-Z]

I guess I'm missing something...to remove rear strut...

the FSM says disconnect half shaft, brake line and EB cable,

3 bolts in tower, and remove spindle, then lower strut and

change cartridge like fronts ....

Different method ???

BTW John and Pete are in Cali...at the convention....

can't interupt their fun !!:classic:

[Bambikiller240]

I've always removed the halfshafts, disconnected brakes (fluid lines and E-brake cable), dropped exhaust system, then disconnected the INNER transverse link bolts (them 2 BIG BOYS on each side where the suspension mounts to the chassis) and then the 3 nuts at the top of the strut assembly. You end up with the entire Rear Suspension from each side of the car on the ground where you can play to your hearts content.

Some folks will just loosen the INNER transverse link bolts and the remove the 3 nuts at the top of the strut and swing the suspension down, out of the wheelwell. (after having undone the halfshafts, brakes, etc as mentioned above)

Bottom line is there is no need to separate the transverse link (A-Arm) from the strut assembly.

[NH-75-Z]

Thanks for your insight...I've seen this method discribed

on another forum, just didn't know it was the "norm" .

FSM....instructions are Pie in the Sky !!!

More time on the creeper.....saves at least $500 !!

[Ed]

Originally posted by Bambikiller240

Some folks will just loosen the INNER transverse link bolts and the remove the 3 nuts at the top of the strut and swing the suspension down, out of the wheelwell. (after having undone the halfshafts, brakes, etc as mentioned above)

This is the way I did mine. If you have the stock springs you should use spring compressors or you will have a hard time clearing the wheel well.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by NH-75-Z

Thanks for your insight...I've seen this method discribed

on another forum, just didn't know it was the "norm" .

FSM....instructions are Pie in the Sky !!!

More time on the creeper.....saves at least $500 !!

Well, It's the "norm" for me anyways. Looks like Ed's norm is the swing out method. Either way gets it done.

need some help spending that extra $500??

[mtdripo]

I agree with bambikiller. I replaced my rear struts without ever removing the a arm, just tilted the strut out past the fender well and presto. Did both sides in about 45 min. Don't let a mechanic scam you, its not that much work.Besides you will enjoy your ride much more if youdo it yourself imo.

[Ed]

One thing that the manual won't tell you to do. You will probably notice it when you remove your old cartridges. Before you put in your new cartridge you need to put about 1/4 cup of ATF in the strut assy (in the hole where the cartridge goes). Not only will this help prevent moisture from rusting out your cartridge it also helps disipate any heat that builds up during heavy use.

[dhoneycutt]

Originally posted by Ed

One thing that the manual won't tell you to do. You will probably notice it when you remove your old cartridges. Before you put in your new cartridge you need to put about 1/4 cup of ATF in the strut assy (in the hole where the cartridge goes). Not only will this help prevent moisture from rusting out your cartridge it also helps disipate any heat that builds up during heavy use.

Tokico actually recommends doing this as well. I am in the middle of redoing my suspension (Bushings, struts, springs) I took mine all apart but glad I did as I found some unusual stuff (PO swapped rear strut housings with later model 260/280 so my stuff didn't fit) Got some replacements coming so I can finish it up.

[Bambikiller240]

Just don't put in too much oil. Make sure the oil level (with strut cartridge installed) is no closer than about 1" from the top of the strut tube. If you get it too full, the oil will seep out in small amounts and wet down your suspension so that dirt collects on it forever.

BTDT