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More electrical trouble, need suggestions


Si|v3r72

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I'm sorry Keith, I know I'm not doing 240Z ownership any justice with this post, but I need to get this worked out. If it's as simple as a new starter, I'm exstatic.

Sorry for not reading that in your first post.

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Nah, you're alright......

I think we all know what a PITA electrical problems can be.

I'm going to be stripping a 72 soon, so if you want the harness I'll put your name on it. But, I don't know what kind of shape it is in under the dash, it's been a "mouse-den" for a while till a black snake took up residence in the car last year....LOL

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the saga continues. so far my battery has completely drained twice in the last week. the first thing anyone looks at is the alternator, and since mine is fairly recently installed (new reman), I took it to the shop that installed it to test it. During testing, we verified two things:

1) the alternator is in good working order, and

2) w/o the Ign fuse, the alternator is cut off and the car is running directly from the battery.

This explains why my battery has been dying, but it doesn't solve my problem yet. the shop is willing to look at each component on that fuse and try to find the short (with the assistance of the wiring diagram), so hopefully i'll have an answer soon.

edit: Keith, I may just take you up on your harness offer. I have the feeling sooner or later I'm going to need one. Let me know if and when you get to it, if it's worth salvaging.

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Tom; The ign fuse recieves power when the key switch is in the run position. Both with and without the motor running. Try this next. Unplug the volt regulator, unplug the oil press sw. on the engine, unplug the temp sensor on the head,unplug the fuel sender wire at the tank, the hazard sw.,and finally the turn signal flasher. Next put in a new 20amp fuse.

Then turn the key to run position. Do not start car. See if the fuse blows. Those are the items the fuse feeds so it would help to see what happens.

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Originally posted by Bambikiller240

Is your Reman Alt an Externally regulated one, or did you convert to Internally Regulated? If you did a conversion, are you sure that it was done correctly (diode, etc)?

Ah, you beat me to it.......My money's on the alternator being IR!

MOM

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Originally posted by greyghost

Tom; The ign fuse recieves power when the key switch is in the run position. Both with and without the motor running. Try this next. Unplug the volt regulator, unplug the oil press sw. on the engine, unplug the temp sensor on the head,unplug the fuel sender wire at the tank, the hazard sw.,and finally the turn signal flasher. Next put in a new 20amp fuse.

Then turn the key to run position. Do not start car. See if the fuse blows. Those are the items the fuse feeds so it would help to see what happens.

Ok I'll give it a whirl, but what puzzles me is that the fuse doesn't blow as soon as power is supplied to it, or even at engine idle speed. It seems like it only blows after I increase the engine's rpm's.

edit: BK240, I haven't touched the alternator since it was installed. How do I tell if it's internally or externally regulated?

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Tom;

I am not sure how to tell by looking at the alt if it is internally regulated or not. 72 Z's used an externally regulated one and there is a separate voltage regulator mounted on the inner fender.

I was just wondering if maybe a shop installed the wrong alternator (an internally regulated one) and left the external regulator in the circuit. Grasping at straws here. I hate electrical problems!

PS IF the alt has been upgraded to Internal Regulated, there is a Tech Article on a modification to the Chassis wiring that would need to be done (at the plug for the original External regulator). Don't do this mod unless you are certain of which Alt you have in the car.

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Ok I verified that the alternator is externally regulated, both the alternator and the voltage regulator were replaced last summer. So it appears the alternator is not the culpret.

I hope to find some time this weekend to start troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.

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