Cutting spring coil

[gramercyjam]

Originally posted by Zrush

What's the difference between lowering springs and just cutting the stock springs? (Other than....the lowering springs you have to go out and buy and the stock springs are already yours). Are lowering springs stronger/stiffer. Very interesting thread IMO

Vicky

Depends on the type of lowering springs. Progressive springs seem all the rage right now. Progressive refers to the spring rate that starts out soft and progressively gets stiffer as the spring is compressed for a more comfortable ride than out-and-out performance springs. These types of springs are a compromise of comfort and performance.

Performance wise, lowering springs of a constant rate would be comparable to cut stock springs. You need to ask the spring mfgr what rate the springs are ( or measure them on a spring tester) to make the comparison.

[kmack]

Just out of curiosity, how could you measure a spring rate at home?

[gramercyjam]

Use your drill press and a bathroom scale to approximate maybe?

On second thought, that's probably not going to work on anything but the most anemic springs, unless you have a monster drill press, but you get the idea.

[kmack]

Originally posted by gramercyjam

... probably not going to work on anything but the most anemic springs, unless you have a monster drill press, but you get the idea.

That's kind of what I was thinking but wasn't sure. I have a full-height standing drill press so I can make it work. And I don't expect my springs to be anything even close to 300 lb springs anyway.

[2ManyZs]

Since you're an accomplished welder, you could also try this.

Cut the bottom spring perch off and weld it back on the tube lower. One benefit of this would be the fact you could move all of them to the same exact measurement instead of cutting the coils and possibly not getting them all the exact same length.

The springs you have are probably pretty similar to the Stage ll European springs that were in the Nismo Competition catalog, and they are rated at 122 front and 140 rear.

And as far as your camber irrgularity side to side, you could just move the one pivot point out 1/2 inch to get them closer to being equal.

Remember, if you lower it too much more, you'll either need the strut spacers, or move the pivot point up on the crossmember to get the roll center back in line where it should be.

[brianglawson]

just to through in if negative camber is used stretch smaller tires on large wheels, it gives you a round serface, and also tightes response