Fitment issues with cast oil pan??

[EricB]

Hey all,

Obviously it would have been a lot easier to fit this cast oil pan to the block when it was OUT of the car... Unfortunately that's not the situation I'm in... I've got the old steel plan removed (I couldn't get the damn thing to seal anymore no matter what gasket I used - probably warped from old age?..)

Anyways even with moving the steering rack forward and sort of out of the way I can't get that pan in there... Obviously tranny is on the engine, etc...

So I need to lift up the engine in order to have more room...

But without anything to attach my chain too I'm wondering if I can't jack up the motor the inch or two I need to get the clearance required to fit this pan... Do you all think the bellhousing is sturdy enough with the engine attached to it to lift it from there once the two side engine mounts are removed???

I've seen some people run a chain around the camshaft but that's just plain scary....

Hoping I don't have to pull the engine out of the car to swap an oil pan... <groan>....

& Besides once it IS on there it looks like it will be real close to the steering rack - has anyone else had any issues with it?

-e

[Bambikiller240]

Doesn't your engine have "eye" brackets (one near the fuel pump, and one on the last exhaust manifold mount bolt) to lift the engine?

I'm not sure about jacking up, or lifting from the bell housing. I (myself) would be worried about that. Of course, I worry about a lot of things.

Lifting by camshaft sounds like a worse idea.

[Ed]

I've used the bolt holes that the "eye's" are supposed to be bolted to. One up front by the fuel pump the other the #6 exhaust stud. Linked a chain and used grade 8.8 bolts.

I was thinking couldn't you raise the car and put it on jack stands. Then raise the engine until it came off the mounts. Then lower the crossmember?

There are only four bolts that hold the crossmember to the frame. If there is a issue with alligning the bolt holes after your done, you could take out one bolt each side and put a long bolt in it's place (just to hold it). Depending on how long your bolts are would determine how much space you get.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Ed

I was thinking couldn't you raise the car and put it on jack stands. Then raise the engine until it came off the mounts. Then lower the crossmember?

There are only four bolts that hold the crossmember to the frame. If there is a issue with alligning the bolt holes after your done, you could take out one bolt each side and put a long bolt in it's place (just to hold it). Depending on how long your bolts are would determine how much space you get.

Probably could do that, but if the engine gets lifted off the mounts by 1-1/2" or so, that by itself should give enough room to install the new pan, but dropping the X-member would give extra room to do it.

[panchovisa]

If you need two extra inches, jack the car up four more inches from where it sits on jack stands, wrap a chain over a 4x4 resting across three or four garage rafters, bolt the chain to holes used with lifting eyes, undo motor mount bolts to rubber isolators, lower car back down onto jack stands.

Install pan and reverse procedure to bolt engine back in. The poor mans cherry picker.

Attached is picture showing engine hanging while I swapped front cross member and oil pan on my car.

[Ed]

I've said it before and I'll say it again. It's good to see someone putting the stands in the best possible location. Right behind the T/C cup. Where the metal is the thickest.:classic:

[EricB]

omg!!! are you serious!!! look at that crossmember and steering rack... WOW it looks SOOOO nice.... beautiful work there.... wow... speechless...

-e