Urathene Rear bushes

[khughes]

Hi i have just got a set of Noltec Rear control arm bushes (http://www.noltecsuspension.com/product/search.php?selBrand=47&product_vhcid=485), N61613

I assumed that the "rear control arm" is the rear arm that the spring, shocks, brakes etc.. are connected to in the back.. (what the service manual refers to as a suspension arm)

the bushes length wise seem that they should fit, however after removing the rubber bushes and crush tubes, and comparing them to the noltec ones, it seems that there is no way that they will fit the urethane bushes seem to thick to fit (unless you some how have to remove the inner wall of the mount?) and the crush tube has too much play when you insert the bolt.. like 1mm gap, not a perfect fit as is the factory crush tube, enough for it to rattle around.

please tell me i am stupid and looking at the wrong arm (i don't profess to know much, this is my first real hands on project), if so which arm should i be looking at?

Thanks guys!

[khughes]

pictures are located here if anyone can help

The originals:

http://www.project240k.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=106

The originals removed:

http://www.project240k.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=108

The new bushes:

http://www.project240k.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=107

Thanks Guys

[kinfish]

Looks like you removed the old rubber bushing and the center sleeve but left the outer thin wall sleeve in the transverse link (outer bushing locations). If you have a micrometer make some checks of the ID bore of the link and the OD surface of the polyurethane bushing. Fit should be about line-on-line .... that is not tight and not loose. You will probably find that the thickness of the thin outer sleeve (X2) accounts for the difference. Solution is to remove the outer sleeve at both locations on the transverse link. Best way is to carefully cut two grooves in the sleeve lengthwise spaced about 3/8 inch apart. Use hacksaw and cut thru 90% of the thickness so you don't cut into link and create a new problem. Take your time and stop to check depth of cut on each side so you don't screw up. Next step is to use punch and hammer that piece of material until it starts to roll up and out other side. Sleeve will fall out when done.

:cheeky:

[khughes]

thanks, i thought that would be the case, any ideas about the different diametres of the crush tubes? i would imagine that if i used the supplied noltec tubes, the movement of the bolt (around 1mm) sideways would not be a good thing..

[440k]

The crush tubes don't actually transfer load through the bolt (in theory). They're supposed to clamp at their ends, so no shear loading is transferred into the bolt. This way, it soesn't matter what the clearance is between the bolt.

Are the ends of the crush tubes serrated? If so, you'll probably find they're made from hardened material. If the bolts come loose, then they will take the shear load, and you have a problem.

[kinfish]

The crush tubes (inner sleeves) from my Energy Suspension kit were 1.826 inch long with .642 ID. New Nissan spindle pins have .628 OD. Hence the fit between the 2 pieces is .016 diametrically loose. If your fit is really 1mm (about .040 diametrically) I would call manufacturer to determine if your parts are non-conforming to specs.

[khughes]

no worries, ripped out the inner sleeve and the bushes now fit, havn't fitted the arms back to the car now as i am waiting on new brake parts first, then we will see how they all fit up!!

thanks for all your help!