I used the described tutrial and found it to be pretty good. I had some unique problems and also found the french safe heating and cooling concept ineffective (big hammer did the trick) - might work for you though.

I'm not a mechanical guy so it very helpful for me along with several other tips he offers - check out the shifter bushing tip.

Reference:

NOS Nissan Part Numbers for rear wheel bearings and assembly

inner rear wheel bearing: 43215-E4100 (Nissan part #)

outer rear wheel bearing (with built in seal) 43210-E4100 (Nissan part #)

Inner rear wheel bearing seal: 43232-E4100

Stub Axle Nuts (280ZX type w/o peen: 43262-W1200

SFK Bearing Numbers:

Outer: GRW-117

Inner: GRW-116

Tech Tip Reference: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html

Note Also:

The "how to" originally Posted - is done on a 260/280 rear axle.

If you are doing a 240Z - there are washers{shims} on each end of the "spacer" between the bearings.

Part Number 43211-N3400 which are NLA.

These washers {shims} "MAY" have been eliminated in production even before 8/73. You'll know when you take the assembly apart. If they are present - keep the washers and spacers together as a set, for each axle.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Did remove my axles following these tips it

was a relatively easy job the tricky thing was pushing out the axles but heat is the solution

heat the housing and the bearing and axle will come out easy.

I know my car is 71 240Z but i never had a problem with stuck or seezed nuts.

I did no had any slide Hammer but i did not need to save the existing axles as i am installing

Chequered flag Axles and companion flange so i can put Z31 CV joint half shalft so i just punched it out by the end of the axle.

Thank`s for those tips

CONGRATULATIONS on reviving a zombie thread! I might have to do this myself, rear wheels aint rolling so well anymore...

We have a speciality shop here, well actually several in the area - I used them to press out axles and check the bearing races etc. It only took them about 10 minutes - and cost me $20.00. Money well worth the time saved and hassles avoided. They have the equipment to quickly, easily and safely do the work.

Just a thought.

Carl B.

Carl,

Could you PM me with the name of the specialty shop. I have a rear bearing that starts to whine once it gets fully warmed up.

as another thread bump.

I put my rear hub together tonight, checked the distance piece length, its bang in the middle, checked all bearings are fully seated, they seem to be and was showing 11 tonne on the press guage.

Its spings lovely and freely without the companion flange torqued up, however as soon as some torque is applied the whole assembly goes stiff.

could it be the inner seal causing friction? distance piece is installed and all correct, outer bearing is the right way round!  its causing me some head scratching, i've had it apart about 5 times trying to see whats causing it to bind. 

I even checked the bearings were 'square',  and the spindle span perfectly round.

 

<a href="https://imgur.com/dlqhmz1"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/dlqhmz1.mp4" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

 

Its a B distance piece(hub is b also)

 

 

Edited August 8, 20186 yr by Jason240z

If you don't seat the inner grease seal in far enough it will bind when you torque it down. I also hit mine a couple of times to make sure I had it seated and it was resistant to spinning. They are both good now...

+ 1 Inner seal needs to be pushed in so companion flange doesn't rub. Happened to me this month.

I forgot to add, I removed the seal to see if that was the cause, had the same problem.

It all points to a bearing not being seated properly?

Does your car have the copper shim that goes between the inner bearing and the companion flange? If so, torque settings are significantly less than what fsm says. See the technical bulletin...72 or 73 can't remember. I am traveling today otherwise I could point you to the exact bulletin. Maybe someone else can. My 72 has the copper shim and I torqued mine to around 115 ft piunds....middle of the range.

Other possibilities

Bad bearings, outer bearing not bottomed to the axle bottom, outer bearing not fully seated in the hub. Mount the assembly in a vice and beat the outside where lug nuts are with a dead blow hammer. The threads on the axle shaft should just barely reach the outside of the companion flange when it is fully seated.