Hi

So, new bearings, both sides are exactly the same.  doesn't have the copper shim, doesn't mean it shouldn't though.  It only needs 2-3mm of a shim there and it'll be spot on.

I've read the TSB, seems to be lots of variables, some should have shims either side of the distance piece, others under the companion flange,  I think a 2-3mm shim there would be perfect, I can't actually see why I shouldn't?  I've found some copper washers/shims online, 32mm inside, 42 OD, 1.5mm thick, I might try 2 of these, a little torque would reduce them below 3mm total?

This is where I used the BFH. Made is right as rain.

Agree. Bfh.

BFH won't help, I've checked them in a press even.  Fully home both sizes, then measured, built them up, measurements have stayed the same.

 

 

You have pressed from the outside wheel plate (where the lug nuts are) pushing into the hub?

Would love to see a photo of the inside of the companion flange with nut torqued.Also, the hub where the outside plate meets.

 

Also...can we assume that you dont have two different size wheel hub assemblies and maybe got the inner sleeve mixed up.

 

Regarding the copper spacer...if your car never had it and the hub rotated properly before, you shouldnt need it. Early cars didnt have unless retrofitted. Later s30 cars didnt have at all.

Edited August 8, 20186 yr by jonathanrussell

1 hour ago, jonathanrussell said:

You have pressed from the outside wheel plate (where the lug nuts are) pushing into the hub?

Would love to see a photo of the inside of the companion flange with nut torqued.Also, the hub where the outside plate meets.

 

Also...can we assume that you dont have two different size wheel hub assemblies and maybe got the inner sleeve mixed up.

 

Regarding the copper spacer...if your car never had it and the hub rotated properly before, you shouldnt need it. Early cars didnt have unless retrofitted. Later s30 cars didnt have at all.

my car didn't, however I've bought some intrax suspension that came with the hubs.  Both marked B, both b spacers, both the same length, both give the same issue.

Yes, I tried pressing once I wasn't getting anywhere..... just to make sure everything was 100% home, nothing had moved.... I'm a little baffled.

Somewhere in Abate's content he has gone through all of the same problems you're having, and done all of the things that you're doing.  It's an old story.  CO eventually helped get it straightened out but I can't find the specific thread posts.  The bearing races were getting cocked during insertion.  Not obvious, ironically.  @Captain Obvious

Old news, it's out there somewhere.

https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/30168-matthew-abate/?do=content&type=forums_topic&change_section=1

This may be it Zed, 

Or this?  I just google and put classiczcars.com at the end.

 

Edited August 8, 20186 yr by siteunseen

I am out of ideas except to just suggest a bfh one last time.

I know it sounds counter intuitive but...in my experience a pressed bearing (especially in these hubs) can get tweaked a bit and beating with a dead blow hammer can move it just a bit more.

Just a thought. Best of luck. Let us know how it turns out.

The bearing seat gets gouged when the races get cocked.  You can't beat a gouge in to submission.  They just get stronger.

I hear (read) you. But just going on what worked for me. I hammered in circles around the edges and it flattened the seating of the bearing for me.

1 hour ago, jonathanrussell said:

I hear (read) you. But just going on what worked for me. I hammered in circles around the edges and it flattened the seating of the bearing for me.

I basically did the same thing. I drove the hub into the spindle with a hammer. Then I supported the spindle and drove the bearing down evenly all the way around. It's what I found worked for me. Nothing ventured, nothing gained...You could even support the inner bearing with a large socket and then drive the hub in. I probably used a 2 pound hammer.

You are really just looking for a couple of thousands