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Key codes


240znz

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Mike, the 3/71 parts car with the two sided key that works all the locks interests me. Is this code recorded on a glovebox decal? Is the 4 digit code preceeded by the letter M? Here is why I am asking. My 10/70 also has two, two sided keys like Dan's. We need more input from other Series 1 owners but here is my theory so far. We know the jumbled nature of cars coming off the assembly line early on. I believe the identification numbers were stamped on the cowl stampings before frame up but this is in no way any indication of the order of the cars moving through the system or of order of completion. This would explain why my car which numerically falls in between Arne & Jim's cars is not keyed the same but is keyed like Dan's. It seems logical to me that Dan's key code decal should mimic mine, but again it would be nice to get more Series 1 input. Could the letter M preceeding the later key codes represent "master" meaning one key works everything? Interesting subject.

Ron, this just keeps getting better and better. My two sided ignition key does mimic your and is embossed with an "M XXXX" code. Do you, also, have a single sided key for doors, glove box, and rear hatch lid? That key just has a four number "XXXX" code. I know mine to be original because thats the way it came from the showroom when I purchased it new.

Dan

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Dan,

VOSS and WASO keys are the early single sided ignition keys. WASO keys were not used for US Z cars. It sounds like you have a two sided ignition key, so yours is not the earlier one sided VOSS type. It is interesting that you have separate keys for the ignition and doors/etc. I thought that when the two sided keys came out in series II cars they operated both the ignition and everything else. I have a 3/71 parts car and it has a two sided key that works all the locks.

-Mike

Mike,

Thanks, that clears up my confusion about VOSS and WASO keys. Am I correct in assuming that all series 1 cars had the two key system? My car, being right at the end of series 1 production, may have been caught in the transition with a series two ignition key and series 1 doors key.

Dan

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"My car, being right at the end of series 1 production, may have been caught in the transition with a series two ignition key and series 1 doors key".

Dan

This is what I believe to be the case. They had to make use of these surplus parts before going to a single key system. You being the original owner, have the knowledge of what has been done to your car. I have been doing some reverse engineering in my head trying to sort out what changes were made to mine. The ignition was original but extreemly worn out. The door locks were replaced with double sided but the originals were included in a box of parts, not worth saving because the stainless was run over with a sander and damaged. So I decided to go to a single key works all, for convenience sake only. What happened to your original key code label in your glovebox Dan?

Z train - The only place I see them turn up is on Ebay. You could try checking some long time established hardware stores, auto suppliers and locksmiths but will probably find only generic blanks, not NOS.

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What happened to your original key code label in your glovebox Dan?

Ron,

To tell you the truth, I don't remember ever seeing a key code decal in my glove box door. If there was one, it came unglued very early. My warrantee

book key code blank space was, also, never filled in by the dealer, as I have just noticed.

I am afraid I am guilty of not paying attention to this sort of detail until the importance of these items becomes quite apparent during a restoration.

Dan

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Dan, I don't want to leave any stone unturned and have to point this out, just in case you overlooked it. This is the second time you have mentioned the glove box door when referring to the lock code label. It should be pasted on the inside roof of the glovebox itself, just behind the latch and not the glove box door. I just want to make sure you know that and simply haven't looked up there and have missed it.

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Dan, I don't want to leave any stone unturned and have to point this out, just in case you overlooked it. This is the second time you have mentioned the glove box door when referring to the lock code label. It should be pasted on the inside roof of the glovebox itself, just behind the latch and not the glove box door. I just want to make sure you know that and simply haven't looked up there and have missed it.

Ron,

Well, that is, indeed a revelation. Every key code decal I have seen, whether on cars I have inspected, or glove box doors for sale on ebay, have the decal on the inside of the glove box door just to the left, or inboard, of the latch hook. This location has been substantiated by Mike

McGinnis at Banzai where I purchased the decal. When I talked to Mike, he didn't have any specific information about the correct entries on this decal at the time. He is an extremely busy guy and I didn't want to press him for information. I assume this decal was affixed by the dealer, and maybe some dealers used a more secreted location for security. just a thought, but I appreciate the new information.

Dan

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This is the second time you have mentioned the glove box door when referring to the lock code label. It should be pasted on the inside roof of the glovebox itself, just behind the latch and not the glove box door.
Geezer, that's not what the 3rd of the three scans you posted above says. It says, "Key numbers are no longer entered on car invoices, but are listed on a label on the glove box lid."
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Arne, The only purpose for posting the 3 page TSB was to show the explanation of VH & FH. Really doesn't apply to Dan's car or mine because we both have 2 sided ignition keys. Hmmn...All this time I thought the key code label belonged on the glove box ceiling. That's where mine is and it looks like it always has been. I did not know the key code label was dealer applied either. I have never thought to look for this label on other Series 1 cars. I would be interested to see where this label is located on other Series 1 cars with two sided ignition keys. I don't have the proper Owner's Manual for my 10/70 but I have one dated 15th November 1970. Just as a note of interest the first illustration comes from page 4 and is a matching rendition of the keys that came with my car, as far as I know. The second illustration from page 8 shows a two sided key for the door locks, tail gate lock and glove box lock. It seems to add to the late Series 1 key transition theory.

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This subject was dealt with in earlier threads ! I'm a locksmith , and after 25 years of dealing with automotive locks, it never ceases to amaze me to what extent people will try and go through to chase down lost keys on the cheap. A competent locksmith will have good code programs in his arsenal , and at the least an old book of codes . From there he / she can originate keys by using either a punch machine or a computer controlled mini cc machine , google ITL1000C for example . You will end up with factory perfect keys ! Now for the people who have lost their keys and codes, hire a MOBILE locksmith , and have keys made on the spot . Don't waste everybody's time and just bring one lock to a shop , you cheapskates out there ( unless you really are broke , then go ahead :nervous:) . This rarely works . So there you go . A competent locksmith , a few bucks , problem solved ! Yes there are variances to early Datsun systems , but late '70 and later are all double sided keys . You can get ALL locks to work on ONE key if desired , once again call a good locksmith . ( I've got GM locks on the doors of my '70 ! They retrofit quite nicely, and no one can pick 'em or ''wiggle'' their Datsun keys in my locks and open the doors ) . Lots of options available , just phone a locksmith, not Mcguiver shadetree to ''save'' money .

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