Toyota Brake conversion details

[hls30.com]

There was a utility in the Downloads section of this site for accomplishing the same thing

Will

[RAZ1]

Here are some images of my conversion. It's so easy it doesn't make sense to go into detail. You will need to trim the baffle plates as my before and after shots show.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5524&stc=1

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5525&stc=1

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5526&stc=1

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5527&stc=1

I wrote the how-to in the Summer issue of Sport Z Magazine on the 300ZX vented rotor conversion. It was soooo easy. And make sure to use the one piece steel braided brake line that runs from the strut tower directly to the caliper and eliminate that trumpet pipe (I'm not sure what they call it)

[Bambikiller240]

There was a utility in the Downloads section of this site for accomplishing the same thing

Will

Here tis IRFANVIEW

You can also do this in "MS Paint"

[hls30.com]

Thanks Art btw great article!

Thanks Carl, I couldn't get around on the site(navigation wasn't effective) to find it!

Will

[Fun_in_my_z]

Witch ones are better?

300 or toyota?

[Bambikiller240]

Think they are using 300ZX Rotors and Toyota Calipers. Unless I'm reading it wrong.

[Ed]

Bill, the rotors are from a 300zx and the calipers are from a Toyota.

[Ed]

Carl, we must have been thinking the same thing at the same time.

[Fun_in_my_z]

Ohhh brain fart.

[redneckz II]

:hurt: The 300zx disc brake conversion is easy to do. Getting the parts for it is the hardest part for it. I have done this conversion three times now. First you do not need to turn the rotor down. It will work as is. Make sure the calibers read S-12W on it. There is another set of calibers you can use (S-13W), but I haven't done it with those. The 240Z hubs only need a 1/2" or .50 spacer and the 280z hubs only need a .350 to .375 spacer to make it work, it goes between the hub and rotor. You will need longer bolts for this. You should be able to pick them up at the local hardware store (just take the old ones and tell them you need then a 1/2" longer). Unbolt the old single plate disc from the hub and remove (clean the mounting area). Now mount the spacer and new vented disc to the hub (make sure you torque it down to spec's). Now place the calibers over the disc, it should bolt right up (if it does look centered, you may have to space it over with washers). After you have centered it and torqued it down, Look at the different location the brake line goes in. You will have to bend the line by hand to get it to fit. Take your time and don't kink the line. Replace the line if you do. After getting it all back together, make sure you bleed the lines good. If you convert to the bigger MC. You may have to adjust the pushrod on the MC to get the proper pressure to the lines. This is a great racing fix for the 240Z. I have it on my 71 240Z now for the past 10 years. I even went to russell bleeders so I can bleed faster at the track. I also have the 280ZX disc brakes on the back. The 300ZX rotors only move toward the inside of the wheel and does not affect wheel offset. You may have to go to 15" rims to make it fit. I am running 16" rims and don't have any problems with them. Good Luck, Rich. :beard:

[240ZMan]

Hi all, this weekend I did the swap and all went well. The level of pedal effort to stop is a bit less now, and more importantly, it's much easier to modulate the brakes when stopping hard.

I also noticed that the fronts will lock up much earlier than the rears (I suspect this was the case before, but I'm noticing it more now). Actually, I haven't been able to lock up the rears at all, or at least that I noticed.

I realize this is better than the reverse, but my question is now that I have more front stopping power, is there some way to add some more bias to the rears? I know I could get an adjustable bias kit, but I'm hoping there might be a simpler solution. Has anyone whose done this caliper swap found a better answer?

[2ManyZs]

Only way to change it without an adjustable bias control is to try using a more aggressive rear compound pad/shoe.

If you look at Hawk's web-site, you'll see that what I mean. Many people use different compounds front to rear whether or not they have upgraded the brakes or still are running the stock ones.

http://www.hawkperformance.com/

For instance, many racers use Black in front/ blue's in rear (or another combo depending on the car) even with an adjustable bias control just to help modulate the brakes better.