Will a clutch from say a 73 or 74 interchange with a 71?

Self ajusting slave cylinders sound so much better .

Clutch Disc 70 - early 74 (incl 2+2) are the same

Clutch Disc 75 - 78 (Coupe) are the same (different from others)

Clutch Disc 75 - 78 (2+2) are the same (different from others)

Pressure Plate 70 - early 74 (incl 2+2) are the same

Pressure Plate 75 - 78 (Coupe) are the same (different from others)

Pressure Plate 75 - 78 (2+2) are the same (different from others)

Release Bearing 70 - 78 (all) are the same

Clutch Fork 70 - 72 are the same

Clutch Fork 73 - 78 are the same (but different from 70 -72)

Clutch Fork Pivot Ball 70 - 71 are the same

Clutch Fork Pivot Ball 72 - 78 are the same (different from other)

Clutch Master Cylinder 70 - 78 are ALL the same

Clutch Slave Cylinder 70 - 72 are the same

Clutch Slave Cylinder 73 - 78 are the same (but different from 70-72)

Release Bearing Collar 70 - early 74 are the same.

**The collar where the Release bearing is mounted is where it gets complicated. I think that has been covered elsewhere in regard to changing from a 4 speed to a 5 speed trans. Basically, you want to use the collar to match the year and model (2+2, or Coupe)of trans/clutch you are using. You might want to do a search for more detail on the Release bearing collar issue if changing from 4 to 5 speed.

FUN isn't it! :ogre:

Sounds like a blast.

Im going from a 4 to a 5 speed.

Clutches are a long way ahead tho.

I just did the 5 speed conversion.

I used a 78 5 speed, 75-78 clutch, fork, throw out bearing, and slave cylinder. I would recommend just converting everything over, so you don't have to do the manual adjustment thing ever again.

I know this is an old topic, but here are some pics of the clutch pedal from my 1970 240Z. Elongated hole in the pedal, which matched the hole in the clutch master cylinder rod; hole ground then welded with new hole drilled; Oiltite bronze bushing (5/16" ID, ⅜" OD, ¼" long) inserted with new clevis pin.

Looks good