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Reproduction JDM headlight covers with trim


hls30.com

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I can get .020 4'x8' T304 at the local sheet metal supplier for about $55 a sheet, in either brushed or polished.

I tried rolling the contour in T304, but it was too brittle and cracked with the tight radius bends that the trim needs(at the edges). My forming method will be dependant on the material. I have a Shoptask 17XMTCGold with the CNC kit, I have considered machining an 8 piece die set, among other things...

Will

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"I tried rolling the contour in T304, but it was too brittle and cracked with the tight radius bends that the trim needs"

I still think 304 is your best option.

Was the sample piece you used annealed before forming.

You usually can't do heavy forming, without having intermediate steps with annealing. what I mean is you can't form a tight radious bend in one pass you would have to have several rolling operations that gradually form the shape you want, with annealing in betweeen each step.

You might want to look at 304ddq grade stainless

it is designed to withstand greater forming functions before work hardening.

Here is a good read

http://www.askzn.co.za/tech/index.htm

Ahmed

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That is most probably the plastic door edge moulding, just as the black trim that typically comes with that type of headlight cover is-still, it looks nice.

The trim is available from most autoparts stores, Kmart and Walmart for around $7.

Will

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So that probably means there's no rubber seal - just a bit of plastic/chrome trim.

Were the originals backed with rubber so the chrome edge didn't wear away the paint around the headlight buckets?

I have a pair of aftermarket covers with no chrome - just rubber. I always wondered why the rubber seal is a strip of rubber that you have to glue on, rather than a formed piece that you stretch over the entire lense (a bit like the seals for the tail lights)??? Might be an idea to improve your replica chrome covers?

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The current aftermarket covers have no seal other than the black version of the door edge moulding.

The JDM variety have a strip of closed cell rubber glued around the underside of the lens. It has about an 1" to 1.5" opening between the edges-that is to say the ends of the strip are not butted together-see my gallery for a picture of what I am talking about.

I will look at the options for the seal when I have the two major pieces done, my thoughts on the seal now are a black ribbed silicone tape-no chance of paint damage, easily sourced, installed, removed, cleaned, and reinstalled(if you need to polish a scratch out of a cover). But having a donut seal with a U shaped cross section might be a good thing too, Ill check into it.

Will

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have thought of that too-even made up some centrifigal casting equipment, and checking in to chrome plateing the plastic trim. For what I want, and the difference in costvs longevity, real metal is the only way to go. Could you post or pm some pictures of yours?

I have been experimenting with some white metal, and have ordered some thinner stainless to try again with. The lens molds are still not finished.

Will

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  • 1 year later...

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