Rust Treatment

[TrojanOreo]

If someone knowledgeable could click the link that goes to my website...at the very bottom of it there are a few pics showing some surface rust on the top of the car near both the windshield and rear hatch glass. What would be my best approach of getting that treated. Literally step by step would help as this would be my first at attacking this deadly foe. I figure I should be able to sand that down to the metal (?) but I'm not sure where to go from there, if that's where I even start. Basically, I'm body work deficient, and need help. I feel like such an arse...I can overhaul a transmission, rework fuel systems, and install just about anything mechanical, but I'm stumped by brown spots on my metal.

Thanks!

website: cardomain.com/id/trojanoreo

[beandip]

You have some serious problems in the dogleg and possably the rocker pannel. The blistering paint is rust that is coming through from the inside of the dogleg cavity and it looks like it extends in to the frame rail also. You most likely have a plugged drain there . To do the repair correctly the bad sheet metal needs to be cut out and new welded in. It vary likely has extended into the pannel that extends accross the back of the car behind the seat. There are severas layers of sheet metal that are spot welded together at that point that make sort of a frame member that holds the seat belt retractor and support for the diff. as it connects the trans tunnel. The rust around the windows look like just surface rust but it extends under the window gaskets . This rust can be treated by sanding it off and priming with a self etching primer and paint. Remember primer is porus and will let moisture pass throu so top coat with paint , dont leave it exposed to the weather. You can always sand off the repair and repaint when you do the rest of the car. I will send you a PM on what I used to treat the dogleg problem, running out of room here.

[TrojanOreo]

Fortunately, like I said in the PM, that rust on the fender is just local. (Thank goodness) So, I plan on just unbolting that and replacing it. I have a new seal for the windshield so I hope I can find someone competent to help me get the windshield off. And I may just get a new rear hatch since my defrost isn't working either and the seal, although nice and tight, is cosmetically tacky and seems like it was put in by a amateur mechanic. There's a hatch with the same color up at the graveyard for just $60 (which is almost how much the seal costs alone), but it's off a 2+2. Would that cause a fitment problem or should it fit fine?

[beandip]

I stand corrected on the fender. The hatch should be a direct bolt on , same for the front fender. The drain for the cowl to prevent a future problem is to use a 1'' 45 degree PVC elbow and a section of vinyl hose that will fit over the out side of the PVC . selicone all in place and have the hose terminate at the opening at the bottom at the drain. This will provide a direct shute for the water and debris draining from the cowl. Do this on the other side as well. This will prevent the collection of debris in this area which is the beginning of the rocker frame rail .

[TrojanOreo]

I have a project for the weekend!

[Alfadog]

The hatch should be a direct bolt on

Hmmm I was always told the hatches are not interchangeable between 2-seaters and 2+2s. Can anyone verify?

[1 Bravo 6]

Hey there Trojan,

I sure hope you don't have the same nasty little surprise I had when the windscreen came out to fit new hood lining.

RUST all along the top.

So bad, had to have it cut out and new metal welded in.

Fingers crossed for you,

Rick.

[Bruce Palmer]

For these kinds of problems there is a very well done informative video at www.paintucation.com called "Metal Prep and Rust Repair" that'll show all the steps taken to repair the problems you're liable to bump into. Even shows how to bolster the repairs with Zero Rust.

[beandip]

Trojan, I was going to mention that there are other products on the market for rust repair other than POR . It is just that I have used POR my self and havent tried the others. I have heard good things about Rust Zero and Rust Bullet also. POR is sun sensitive and I think the others are not . Personally I would NOT use POR where the top coat of finish is going to be applied , the stuff is so darn hard and difficult to scuff and I think it would be a pain in the butt to prepair properly. I used it extensively on the engine bay but used there special primer that will bond to the POR . Regular primer or paint will peal off unless the surface is scuffed off , which is difficult. The QUESTION RAISED ABOUT THE HATCH NOT FITTING MAY BE TRUE , I am not sure on that one and I should not have said anything about it, sorry . I know the front fenders work and the doors dont. The hatch may not ether because of the top being longer on the 2+2 . Good call ALFADOG.

[matria]

While you have the cowel off, consider cutting out a piece of wire mesh and laying it over the openings and then put the cowel back on. Keeps the leaves and other stuff out that clog up the drain holes.

[TrojanOreo]

I'll head up to Home Depot and open an account today. I've gotta find a garage I can park my baby in. I'd really like to do all the painting myself. I hate apartments...

[TrojanOreo]

All I can say about the following is: "ouch". It's not as bad as it looks. Yes, it is a 2 inch hole, but I'm going to cut that remaining rust out and treat the surrounding area. It hasn't spread beyond that, thank goodness.

http://www.B17A.net/pics/000_0699.JPG

NOTE: Found a buddy who's gonna patch it up after I cut out the rust. I love friends with more tools than me and a garage. Damn apartments.