Ebrake light

[TrojanOreo]

Even after adjustment up and down, my e-brake light stays on all the time. Even after I took out the fuse. Any ideas? I can say after the adjustments, I would hear a click in the back brake area the first time I took the brake off and the light would go off, but everytime after that, it would stay on.

NOTE: I did just redo the front brakes a few weeks ago, (new calipers, pads and shims), bled the whole system (just because) and pulled the drums off the ensure that everything was on the up and up back there. The fluid was a bit low this morning it the canister closer to the firewall, but still within the range, so I topped it off.

[mdbrandy]

Even after adjustment up and down, my e-brake light stays on all the time. Even after I took out the fuse. Any ideas? I can say after the adjustments, I would hear a click in the back brake area the first time I took the brake off and the light would go off, but everytime after that, it would stay on.

NOTE: I did just redo the front brakes a few weeks ago, (new calipers, pads and shims), bled the whole system (just because) and pulled the drums off the ensure that everything was on the up and up back there. The fluid was a bit low this morning it the canister closer to the firewall, but still within the range, so I topped it off.

From your profile, it looks like you have a '78 280Z, right? Well, so do I, and I have exactly the same problem as of about a week ago! I was looking through the schematic yesterday, and the brake trouble light circuit is a little more complicated then I had originally figured. The wire to the e-brake switch should be always hot from what I can see, and when you pull up on the handle, that completes the circuit to ground. (I have 0.02V on that wire - looks like a problem.) When you let the handle out, it breaks the circuit. Now, the ugly part is that there appears to be a relay under the passenger seat that controls this circuit. The 12V line that goes through the E-brake switch is one side of the relay. So, I'm figuring the relay is stuck/bad. However, you have to take out the passenger seat to get to it, which I have not had time to do yet.

Hope that helps a little!

Mark

[Bambikiller240]

Seems like I remember people with 280Z's posting this symptom in the past. Don't 280Z's have those funky Master cylinder caps with the sensors to cause the warning light to come on when the fluid level in the master is low? I think that some people discovered that the caps or wiring had gone south and caused this problem.

[MikeW]

Keep in mind that on most cars the light also comes on when there's an imbalance in the braking system between the front and rear brakes.

[mdbrandy]

The brake caps are a possible source of the problem, and I'm not sure about brake imbalance. However, on mine, I know that the problem occured one day as I was pulling up the e-brake. I pulled up, the light went off, and then came back on. I released and pulled up, light stayed on. Coupled with the face that I now have no voltage to the e-brake connector, and I'm led, for now, to that relay under the seat. I've actually popped the wheels looking for leaks, and the Master cyl. levels are fine. Could still be a failure in those caps, but I'm betting on the E-brake/relay system right now. When I get the chance to pull the passenger seat, we'll see.

[sblake01]

I'd still check the caps. Been through that. Unplug them from the system and check the connectors on the wires on the caps for continuity. They should be continuous when the pucks are down and not when the pucks are up. Those caps aren't 'funky.' They do let you know if you're low on fluid.

[Bambikiller240]

Those caps aren't 'funky.' They do let you know if you're low on fluid.

To a 240Z guy they are kinda funky. (New fangled electrical whatchamacallits) I have always used my eyes (and maintainance procedures) to tell me when to add fluids.

When I was learning about cars, the mechanics at the dealership I was employed at told me, "By the time an idiot light goes on it is often too late of a warning".

[sblake01]

I see your point Carl. After 7 years I guess I'm used to the 280 even though I have owned a 70 and a 72 in the past. The 810, being a 79, has even more gadgets on it, and I catch myself complaining about that when I drive it. We won't even mention Daisey's Infiniti!

[Bambikiller240]

I was just play'in around Stephen. You know the drill on your neat little L320 pickup truck, and on other older vehicles made before the mid 70's. You just get used to checking all that stuff yourself on a routine basis because warning lights weren't available when the vehicle was produced. I do agree that they are handy systems, but an old fart like me still wants to see it for myself.

[TrojanOreo]

I'm an arse, I fixed it. It was the clutch cylinder...waaay low. Brake cylinder was 1/2 way so I topped them all off. Problem solved. <hits self in head>

[mdbrandy]

I'm an arse, I fixed it. It was the clutch cylinder...waaay low. Brake cylinder was 1/2 way so I topped them all off. Problem solved. <hits self in head>

Clutch cylinder? As far as I know (at least on my '78), there is not electronic sensor for the clutch master level. Does yours have a sensor cap like the Master ?!? That would be a new one on me :cross-eye .

[TrojanOreo]

No, it's the ol' fashioned white cap. But I filled that one up, and checked the light. Light went off. Then I went to top off the brake cylinders. Light still off. Yeah, now that you mention it, that is creepy...