Hi all,

Just in the process of sorting out a R200 diff to go on my Z. I've got hold of some POR-15 after reading many good things about it on here. How many coats do you think the diff should have? I've got some of the marine clean and the metal ready stuff as well - think I need that for the ali diff cover right? I've just finished off cleaning the diff up with various wire-brush drill attachments, still looks pretty rusty but there's no loose flakes on it any more.

I've never used this stuff before so not quite sure, any pearls of wisdom about using the stuff?

Cheers,

Rob

I would suggest building some way of suspending the diff so that you could paint the whole thing in one step. First things first. Safety, wear gloves! The Marine clean will dry your skin and the paint won't come off.

After you have removed all of the crud on the diff and the entire surface is clean spray on the Marine Clean. I use a brush to work it into the creases and loosen any remaining crud. Let it sit for about 5 minutes to get all the grease off. Rinse with water. Let it dry. Next the Metal ready, spray it on and work this also with a brush, keep the surface wet with Metal ready for atleast 15-20 minutes. The Metal ready will neutralize the rust and gently etch the metal surface. Rinse with water. Next is to thoroughly dry the diff. Don't use towels or anything that would apply waxes or other contaminates. Use a blow dryer. I would say leave it in the sun for a couple of hours but I notice you live in the U.K. :laugh: After the diff is completely dry you can paint. Mask off any areas you don't want to paint. One coat will be enough but if you want to apply a second coat wait about 1 hour. Do the "finger drag" check. If it feels tacky but not wet then it's ready for the second coat.

Try not to breath the fumes because they are toxic, use a respirator. Or in a well ventilated area.

Your POR materials should have come with lots of information on application. If you don't have it, you can view and print the info from their website, or the site of your local distributor.

http://www.por15.com/

http://www.thefinishedlook.com/products.htm

Thanks guys!

I've got the first coat of glossy black loviness on the main casing now, will be doing the cover with silver later. You'll be pleased to hear that this week is British summer so I'm actually doing it outside, enjoying the sunshine while it lasts and getting a bit giddy on the fumes

I'm very impressed with paint, went on real easy and has great coverage, probably didn't need to buy a quart of the stuff - a well, I'm sure there's a few more places I'll be able to slap it on!

Cheers,

Rob

Rob, one more thing. Put a piece of thin plastic (the kind used for covering food) over the can before you close the lid. It will help prevent the lid from sticking to the can.

I'm actually doing it outside, enjoying the sunshine while it lasts and getting a bit giddy on the fumes

I believe POR-15 is an isocyanate-based coating, and breathing the fumes can be very bad for your health, even if you are outside. I'd wear a respirator.

I believe POR-15 is an isocyanate-based coating, and breathing the fumes can be very bad for your health, even if you are outside. I'd wear a respirator.

I'm not sure if it's the fumes or the mist. I used a organic filter even while brushing but the instructions indicate that you really need to be careful when spraying:

"Most people brush it on, but many spray also. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate respirators for solvents are essential for spraying."

Absolutly on the masks. If you do get some of the paint on your skin ,clean it right away or it will be permanate untill it wears off. I use Lacquer thinner and it removes it vary well if you get it right away . I painted the underside of my floors with it and had a smear on the side of my face like Mike Tison , almost waited too long. Latex gloves are a must.

Thanks all!

I discovered today that painting the moustache bar suspended on the washing line makes an excellent alternative to fly paper - d'oh!!

And despite wearing gloves, I still seem to have a fair bit of paint on my hands - oh well, at least I won't rust

One thing that I think would be a good development for the manufacturers though would be a gel version of the metal ready that you can just slap on and leave without it dripping everywhere and you having to stand around like a numpty keeping the item wet, glad no one can see me in my back yard

cheers,

Rob

They do have por in a cream form . It comes in a tube like tooth paste. I have used it with good success for filling seams when I have removed the dry white calking the factory used . I coated the inside of the hatch with the paint , I have the glass out, and I used masking tape to seal the seam around the glass side of the hatch to keep the paint form driping through. There were a couple of spots that were gaps and used the paste on them . Also accross the rear bellow the hatch where the floor meets the pannel I found some cracks in the calking and filled again with the paste. I have a great method of shooting por paint inside the doglegs and rockers and any of the cavities that I have found. The ''gun'' was about $7.00 and is a snap to clean . If you are interested send me a PM , Gary I OMITTED THE FACT THAT ESCANLON IS THE ONE THAT TOLD ME OF THIS GUN . I JUST WANTED TO GIVE CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE . :surprised

The POR PATCH paste works great, but I think he was wanting to have Metal Ready in a gel form.

Spray the metal ready on a papertowel. and it will stick like-well, a spitwad. Occasionally take it loose to agitate the surface with a wire brush, replace the paper towel, and redampen it. You will find this works suprisingly well!

Will