This is for removing the pin that attaches the rear controll arm to the strut. I have a tool that is available for loan . All that is required for its use is to promise to pay the shipping both ways and returned promply , and clean ,also it is for membars only. There is no need to beat or pound the pin to remove it . After the car is jacked up and on stands , remove the nuts from each end of the spindle pin .( Dont forget to remove the tapered pin in the middle of the controll arm , that is there to keep the pin from turning + don't tighten it too much when done ) .The tool is then screwed down on one end of the pin. and a large nut is then turned on the tool and the pin is drawn out of the controll arm .In most cases the old pin is reused. You then replace the bushings and the pin after cleaning any rust present and reassemble. This tool is made of a section of pipe and a hardened length of all thread and a series of washers and a thrust bearing . If urathane bushing are being used the tool is used to spread the controll arm 1/16'' wider to allow for the new bushings. Makes it an easy one day job . Gary I now have a set of drawings if you want to build one your self, just send me a pvt message.

After the car is jacked up and on stands , remove the nuts from each end of the spindle pin . The tool is then screwed down on one end of the pin. and a large nut is then turned on the tool and the pin is drawn out of the controll arm

You left out an important step: remove the locking bolt that fits in the vertical slot in the middle of the pin. If you forget that the tool isn't going to work.

:stupid:

You guys have a place reserved in heaven for this thread-if only it had saved me from making a mushroom out of the treaded end of a spindle pin-I will post a picture of what happens when frustration takes over and follows the "get a bigger hammer" routine tomorrow!

Will

Gary (beandip) sent me the specs for this tool. I am building one for myself and one for sale or loan. I am currently tapping the neccesary threads in the barstock that attaches to the pull rod and the end of the spindle pin. I will attach some pics of my progress so far.

Thanks again to Gary.

Chris

Looking Good Chris. You'll be pleased as punch when you see how well that tool works!

"Ditto" (Thanks to Gary for lending his tool when I needed it)

Thanks Carl, I'm doing the work at my shop as I have all the big tools here. Love to have that mill in my home garage. Scared to put 6,000 pounds on my garage floor. Might end up in China. I have to say to all those who might consider making this tool for themselves that the parts arent really expensive. I got the the thrust bearings from www.mscdirect.com and the rest from the local machine shop. The thread taps have turned out to be the most expensive. I had metric taps on hand but had to buy the 1/2-13NC taps. After mushrooming the pins on my 71 I decided I had to have this tool. Someday when I get my 2 other Z's out of storage then I'll be ready. I plan on giving the tool its first workout on my daily driver 72. The 73 already has poly everywhere.

Chris

I emailed the drawings and instructions to Mike. he is going to post them. escanlon did the drawings Gary

I agree that polyurethane bushings (energy suspension kit) installed on the inner side of the control arm create a tight fit with the mating hub. I measured mating parts and found .050 tight. However, I don't think it is good idea to use tool to spread control arm to make it go together. My solution was to reduce bushing flange thickness from .128 to .103 so the fit was line-on-line.

Hi Ron,

I just pulled the rear struts out yesterday to start on this job. What did you use to reduce the bushing size?

On the Energy Suspension bushings, do you keep the OEM outer bushing casings, or cut them out?

TIA,

Marty

Reduce the flange thickness of the outer bushings by sanding using about 100 grit paper. Best method is to sand by hand ..... put sand paper on flat surface, hold bushing in hand and rotate in circular motion. Measure twice, cut once so you don't make them too thin.

OEM sleeves in link for outer bushings must be removed. I measured them as 1.060 ID and the bushing OD is larger. Easiest method is to very carefully make two cuts, about .375 apart in OEM sleeve using hacksaw. Take your time so you don't cut into parent material of the link. Cut about 90% thru thickness of sleeve. Take punch and hammer the center section between the cuts and it will roll up as you proceed down the width of the sleeve. Towards the end the sleeve will pop out of the link.

Another tip: check the fit of the new spindle pin to the Energy sleeve in kit. The ones in my kit were deviated and the pin would not fit. Diametrical fit should be about .005 loose. The Energy factory in Calif sent me replacement sleeves at no cost.

Thanks for the tips Ron!

Marty

If any one would like to have the drawings of the pin puller , send me a email or PM . Gary