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Removing Rusted or Otherwise Stuck Nuts/Bolts


texasz

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What is the BEST product you have found to aiding in the removal of rusted on or otherwise stuck nuts and bolts? I have heard to use a 'penatrating oil' but that's a bit gernic, what brands have you found to work the best? I am going to get back to stripping down my parts car and many of the nuts and bolts have never been loosened are are quite stuck.

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Allan, I'm not one to advocate one product over another, so what is the best remains to be seen! However, good old WD-40 works quit well when librally applied and is allowed to soak in for a day or two. Anyway, WD-40 (or similar products) has worked well for me, for many years.

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Testimonial

I have been using PB Blaster for years. Great stuff, and easy for me to find at most any parts house. Kroil is just as good, but I have a hard time finding it. I use WD 40 as more of an all purpose lubricating fluid. WD 40 will dry. BTW, WD 40 is great for getting your kid's gum out of your cloth car seats. With regard to the brass hammer comment, breaking the rusted connection is just the begining of the battle. Try breaking the nut or bolt free by torquing it both ways - on and off. Once you seem to get the connection free, work it back and forth with more liberal amounts of PB Blaster or Kroil to lubricate and clean the rest of the threads. You can break a bolt or a stud on the last threads just as easily. The comment about letting the penetrating oil set for a while is appropriate also. Let the penetrating oil do the work and give it time. Thanks for the encouragement! I deal with rusted crap all the time. It builds patience and moral character to become victorious over the situation!

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My vote is for Kroil. Been using it for over 10 years on cars & motorcycles. Spray on, let sit for at least an hour, with multiple applications during set time. I have never used PB Blaster, but I do know that WD-40 has never worked as well as Kroil has, for me at least. I've put the two to the test before.

And I agree with 26th, when you go to remove, tighten slightly first, then start to back it out. But back it out only a little bit, then tighten again. Keep working it this way, back and forth, and it will get progressively better, easier.

Here's what happens: as you loosen the nut/bolt, the rust inside the threads breaks loose, but remains in the space between the threads. As you work the nut/bolt back and forth (tighten/loosen), it slowly breaks up these rust pieces. As you work it all loose, keep spraying the penetrant into the threads; this will help wash out the loose rust. The more you loosen, the more rust you will break free. If you don't clean it out, it will jamb the threads, putting tension on the bolt, thus twisting it, and in the end, shearing it off.

When ever you are dealing with rusted nuts/bolts, you MUST have patience! Take your time. If it still breaks, at least you tried. Nothing else to loose by trying...

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I do not have a torch

Cheap torch is one of those plumbers torches at any hardware store. Small bottle of propane and the torch head to fit it. Should be less than $50 easily.

Use mine whenever heat is required. Some kits offer different tips for different jobs. My torch head has auto ignite so you're not fumbling for a striker.

FWIW,

Chris

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Where was this thread yesterday???? Aauugghh...I've already sacrificed 4 bolts in taking off the front clip, and now must do penance for my errant ways...

Where can I find healthy replacement bolts/screws? Any hope in saving those that are original to the car (replating, etc.)

Thanks,

X

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