September 13, 200420 yr comment_95040 I have been using kroil and PB blaster for quite a while and I like the use of kroil the best .But as was mentioned I have only found it on the net. I stay away from silikroil because of the silicone and if you ever want to paint the part it is such a pain. The Blaster I think works as good as kroil but PB stinks to high heaven. My garage is attached to the house and the smell is a real factor for me. As some one just mentioned , WD-40 is only used on toys and fish bate , by the way dont use WD on reels or guns It will gum everything up after they sit a while. Gary Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95040 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 13, 200420 yr comment_95047 Where can I find healthy replacement bolts/screws? Any hope in saving those that are original to the car (replating, etc.)Senor X, The 6mm (10mm head) bolts are at Nissan 08360-61212 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95047 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 14, 200420 yr comment_95069 Chloe used to be able to get almost all of the bolts for the cars. Getting your neighborhood Nissan dealer to expend the effort to look up the P/N's is going be the tough part of trying to get them now. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95069 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 14, 200420 yr comment_95101 Victor:Thanks for the product number. My microfiche CD is still en route, so now I have a shot at replacing them! Hopefully they won't cost an arm and a leg, like most dealer-bought parts...X Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95101 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 14, 200420 yr comment_95127 by the way dont use WD on reels or guns It will gum everything up after they sit a while. GaryAnother reason not to use WD-40 on your gun: WD-40 is a penetrating oil. Which in plain english means it's a real thin oil. If used on a gun the oil can work it's way into the primer of the bullet, thus rendering the bullet usless.$ 0.02 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95127 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 14, 200420 yr comment_95148 Ed, very correct. But as a handloader, i must point out that you mean "cartridge" when you say "bullet". I know, i'm being a bit particular, but its a slow day at work!! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95148 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 14, 200420 yr comment_95165 Another reason not to use WD-40 on your gun: WD-40 is a penetrating oil. Which in plain english means it's a real thin oil. If used on a gun the oil can work it's way into the primer of the bullet, thus rendering the bullet usless.And then you won't be able to shoot the rusted bolt off!!! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95165 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 16, 200420 yr comment_95450 Less than a month ago, I took off the nuts on my Datsun 280Z bumpers. Those bumper nuts are abso-friggin-lutely rusted solid. There's so much rust, some of the threads on the bolt actually disappeared. Most of the corners on the nuts disappeared into rust as well. I didn't know there are products such as Blaster, so I didn't try them. What I used were nut extractors from MasterCraft(you know, the kind that looks like a nut, but with 6 spiral cutting edges instead of threads)I used a steel brush to clean up the threads as much as possible, then spray lubricant on the joints. Put the extractor on, sometimes tap it in gently to make it fit over rusted nuts. Take out your biggest crescent wrench, turn the extractor while applying pressure on the extractor, forcing it to bite into the nut. Slowly add torque as you turn to prevent slipping. It had worked very well for me, but I use it as one of the last resorts. The very last resort is an angle grinder. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95450 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 17, 200420 yr comment_95461 Having worked on Rusty Z's since the late 70's, I used a whole lot of WD-40, with very mixed success. When I started taking #215 apart, I asked the same question here, and was led to PB Blaster or Kroil. I tried Kroil, and I will NOT go back to WD-40. There is no comparison on the effectiveness. Before I received the Kroil (mail-order), I also tried some penetrating oil from the local hardware store. Worked better than WD-40, but still nowhere as well as the Kroil. Haven't tried the PB. Mark Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95461 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 17, 200420 yr comment_95469 Another post in support of kroil : I bought a gallon of this stuff 2 years ago, already used about 1/3 of it. Magic in a can! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/13237-removing-rusted-or-otherwise-stuck-nutsbolts/?&page=2#findComment-95469 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Create an account or sign in to comment