Hello, all

I just got a clean 260Z body shell, it has been sitting in someone's garage for a while since it was repaired. It still has some spotty surface rust here and there, usually covering large areas but never deep. My plan is to use this shell and transplant my 280Z parts into it.

Here's what I am trying to find out :

Body & Engine bay : What to do with the surface rust?

Bottom : What kind of undercoat for the bottom? Can undercoat be sprayed right over slight surface rust at the bottom? Or do I have to remove rust before applying undercoat as well?

Anything else?

Thanks in advance

I would remove all the rust with Metal Ready, Ospho, or some other variant of phosforic acid.

Then undercoat.

Will

Yea. Scrub the surface rust with steel wool or a Scotch Bright pad. Wet sand it with Ospho (use rubber gloves) to remove the rust. Don't undercoat over rust or paint over rust. Bare metal only.

I am interested to hear recommendations for spray applied undercoating products and paintable undercoating products. What is the slightly rippled body protectant stuff that has a painted finish?

Don't forget that most undercoatings are pourus and would allow moisture to penetrate. Clean, prime, seal and paint the undercarrage before applying any type of undercoating.

You might want to try POR-15 or a like product. It will seal the surface and is suppose to prevent further rust. Not cheap at around $90.00 a gallon. I have a buddy that used it on a jeep and it seems to work well.

Anybody here tried any product like this.

I used the POR but only on the underside and hidden area not exposed or to be painted finish color. Read the information on the application of POR and follow to the letter . If you dont , don't bother with it as it will likely peal off. I sanded the exterior and preped for paint , removed all rust and scuffed the painted surfaces that were left. Washed all surfaces with wax and grease remover then shot with epoxy primer . Before sanding primer was applied the whole car was scuffed again and degreased , car had set for a few days and the epoxy primer had glazed. After this the sanding primer was applied. This is how I protected and prepaired the car. I had shot the epoxy primer on the jambs edges of the front fenders , off the car , and the same with the doors and head light parts , and hood, just loosely. Reinstalled the doors and fenders and such before the sanding primer was applied . I am going to remove the doors and hood and front fenders after the sanding is finished so the color can be shot in these areas and the engine bay and under side of the hood can be painted . I am removing the front fenders when I install the engine and trans. Just to be safe .

I used the POR but only on the underside and hidden area not exposed or to be painted finish color. Read the information on the application of POR and follow to the letter . If you dont , don't bother with it as it will likely peal off. I sanded the exterior and preped for paint , removed all rust and scuffed the painted surfaces that were left. Washed all surfaces with wax and grease remover then shot with epoxy primer . Before sanding primer was applied the whole car was scuffed again and degreased , car had set for a few days and the epoxy primer had glazed. After this the sanding primer was applied. This is how I protected and prepaired the car. I had shot the epoxy primer on the jambs edges of the front fenders , off the car , and the same with the doors and head light parts , and hood, just loosely. Reinstalled the doors and fenders and such before the sanding primer was applied . I am going to remove the doors and hood and front fenders after the sanding is finished so the color can be shot in these areas and the engine bay and under side of the hood can be painted . I am removing the front fenders when I install the engine and trans. Just to be safe . I paid $31.00 a QT for POR . I did this all with 3 qts.