Rebuilding and Replacing Engine

[texasz]

Please help me out a little here. I'm working on an engine build and trying to get everything together that I will need. I have the main engine covered (block, head, internals, gaskets, etc) I think. FYI, working on a stroker if this info is important.

Additionally I will need the external components and have created this list, please let me know if anything is missing:

• '79 Mazda RX7 OEM electric Fuel Pump
  
• Turbo Z Car Oil Pump
  
• Water Pump
  
• Alternator
  
• some ignition system but not sure which (suggestions?)
  
• New clutch (probably a Centerforce)
  

Now while the engine is out I have also compiled this list of things to do from another thread here (I'm also swapping the tranny and diff at the same time). Please let me know if I'm missing anything on this:

• Strip and redo engine compartment with POR-15
  
• Replace steering rack bushings (use urethane ones right?)
  
• Replace steering coupler disc
  
• Replace motor mounts with Datsun OEM parts
  
• Replace tranny mounts (what part is recommended, OEM?)
  
• Replace clutch slave cylinder
  
• Replace front diff mount with solid unit from ArizonaZCar
  
• Replace half shaft and drive shaft U-Joints with spicer U-Joints
  

Input is very welcome as this will be my first go at this kind of project and really need all the help I can get.

[JEFF]

good list -- should keep you busy for a while !

IMO, engine bays look better the same color as the car.

- Jeff

[texasz]

good list -- should keep you busy for a while !

IMO, engine bays look better the same color as the car.

- Jeff

Yes, now that I sit back and look at it I'm wondering what I am thinking...trying to get all this done this fall/winter. :stupid:

I wold tend to agree with you about the engine bay color but there are a couple things I'm working with here, one is the protection of the area and with POR-15 I should never have to deal with the engine bay again. The second is that I'm not any where near ready to paint the car so I can't do the engine bay very well; and I'm not pulling the engine again just to paint the area.

Now as for any other feedback....does anyone have any???

[Bambikiller240]

Are you going to strip off all of the existing paint in the engine bay?

[texasz]

Are you going to strip off all of the existing paint in the engine bay?

Yes. Major PITA I'm sure.

[tttz]

Thanks for getting this list together in one place. At some point in the future i hope to be able to finish my L28 transplant! I have many of the same questions.

I'm assuming you are using the rx-7 fuel pump to get fuel to your carbs. if so, one thing to add is some way to shut off the power to your fuel pump in the event the ignition is on while the engine isnt running. I think some poeple have come up with a way to do it, but i forget how off the top of my head. Maybe it is a minor issue that gets addressed after the project is complete...

-Ty

[Bambikiller240]

Yes. Major PITA I'm sure.

Well, it's all relative, but it's the only way to get the rust preventative benefit of POR15. If you apply it over paint, it cannot prevent rust. It must be in direct contact with seasoned (rusty, or properly prepared) metal.

[texasz]

I see that I didn't get much feedback on this thread and would like to bring it up again (as plans tent to mine changed and I'm now trying to get going on this now).

1) I need a turbo Z car oil pump but don't know if I should buy OEM or aftermarket and if aftermarket what brand?

2) I need a water pump and have been told that OEM is the only way to go. True?

3) I need an alternator. Should I go OEM or aftermarket? If aftermarket what brand? What about the high output one that Arizona Z Car sells?

4) It looks like I should go with the later Z car electric ignition (e12-88 I believe is the proper one). Please correct me if I'm wrong.

5) I need a clutch and suppose I'll go with a Centerforce unless anyone has a good reason not to and a better one to use. I will be autoxing the car when done.

6) I just got my Hyperflex bushing kit and I believe it has all the steering rack bushings and even the steering coupler disc (if this part is not there I have a urethane one I bought a few months back any how). Are there any other bushings that this kit does not have that I will need while the engine is out? Here's a link to the kit I got: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16969

7) I need new tranny mounts so I need to know if OEM or aftermarket is the way to go? If aftermarket what brand?

8) I will also be installing a new starter and as I understand it I should go with a gear reduction starter. Now what I don't know is how to tell a gear reduction starter, what year(s) did it come in, and should I buy OEM or aftermarket? If aftermarket what brand?

9) Lastly I need a new clutch slave cylinder so should I go OEM or aftermarket and if aftermarket what brand?

I'd rally appreciate your feedback and input on these items please...I know that there's a wealth of knowledge on this site...I just need to tap a little bit of it.

Thank you in advance!!

[Bambikiller240]

When I rebuilt my Engine, I used parts from Motorsport Auto and Nissan OEM. Many of the items from Motorsport were OEM (like the Oil Pump, Trans Mount and Diff Mount. I'm not sure where the Head Bolts MSA sold me came from (they were in a plain plastic bag when received). I can't help with brand names since I tossed the boxes and didn't pay much attention to them anyway.

Your lists (above) didn't mention them, but I'd get new Head Bolts.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

[hls30.com]

Here is my take on the questions I have an opinion on

Buy a real turbo oil pump from Nissan, the after market is the NA pump because it fits both versions of the engine, and is cheeper!

I have had good luck with aftermarket (rebuilt) water pumps, but I haven't replaced one in years!

Use a ZX alternator (Carl posted the article for conversion of the regulator), or have the local alternator shop bump yours up-perfect fit and look, but higher output(usually you can specify), and usually less expensive.

Use the 280ZX Turbo starter(82,83), it is gear reduction. The housing is shaped such that you can tell it has internal gearing. I will see about posting a picture tomorrow.

Will

[texasz]

Your lists (above) didn't mention them, but I'd get new Head Bolts.

Yes, I planned on using the turbo head bolts at a minimum...maybe ARP if I can afford them.

Use the 280ZX Turbo starter(82,83), it is gear reduction. The housing is shaped such that you can tell it has internal gearing. I will see about posting a picture tomorrow.

Will

Thank you for that Will, a pic of the starter would be GREAT! I would love to be able to see the difference...I may even have one that came with the '83 engine I got even though it was not turbo but this way I'll be able to tell the difference.

[hls30.com]

The starter swap was popular, so you might have one with gear reduction!

The gear reduction is also cheeper for some reason. Here is a picture of the gear reduction variety from Beck/Arney

Will