Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

Removing rear control arms - nd help


EricB

Recommended Posts

All bolts come out fine EXCEPT one.

On rear lower control arm, at the rear hub end (not the diff end - makes sense?) the control arm is helding in by a large bolt threaded at both ends (has 17mm nuts on either end, see what I am talking about?) - this large double ended bolt is held in place in the rear hub from sliding around by a smaller (vertically positioned) bolt with a 12mm nut on it.

It is this small securing bolt that I can't get off. Sure the 12mm nut comes off easily enough but then what? I've sprayed liquid wrench in there, lightly tapped it, tapped the larger 17mm double ended bolt from side to side to try to dislodge the smaller one... all for nothing...

advice? hints? tips?

I want to remove the rear lower control arms so that I can swap out the bushings on them....

thanks a mil,

-e

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Try not to move the spindle pin that connects the control arm to the strut. It has a taper that the locking pin slides into so you may make it even tighter by tapping the spindle pin bolt back ond forth. About the only way to get the lock pin out is to get a punch or brass drift and beat it out. You may end up ruining it as it is a bit on the soft side. You can get just the lockbolt new from MSA (part #23-4241 11.00 or so) so if you have to beat it to death to get it out you can get a replacement. You may end up mushrooming the threaded end so that it won't come out, but you could just use a cut-off wheel to grind it off so that it will come out. You are trying to beat it out from the nut end right? Not being a smart a** but it could be confusing looking at it since it is the same size on either end, it comes out by knocking it upward from the nut end. It has very little taper where it goes into the control arm, the taper is where it locks into the spindle pin itself.

The spindle pin is also available so you can replace all of the bolts for around 34 each side.

BTW, when you are done replacing the bushings try not to force the lock pin in too hard or you will mushroom the top and it will not want to go in far enough to start the nut on the bottom. If it doesn't go in quite easily try moving the spindle pin slightly as the tapers are no lining up. And take note as to how the spindle pin comes out as it will only line up one way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

clarification:

the lock pin we are talking about needs to be pulled down - towards the ground - to come out of what I called the double ended threaded bolt with 17mm nuts. Right?

it doesn't look like it can be hammered straight up as I don't think the hole it goes into goes all the way through that part of the rear hub...

So up or down?

Gracìas,

-e

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to hammer on whichever side has the nut. The control arm has a machined area where the nut mounts flat to the control arm. If you notice the control arms are the same right to left except one side is upside down. It goes all the way through the control arm, perhaps it was pulled down so tight the other end is even with the control arm. If it was that may be why it is being so hard to get loose. It should not pull down even with the control arm and is probably wedged in very tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.