Electrical problem...I think

[SavannahZ]

Hello all,

My car is having a problem with its electrical system. A couple weeks ago I was driving on the highway and my car lurched a couple of times. It kind of felt like the power was turning on and off. It did it that one time and not again until today. What is happening is that the speedo needle is jumping around from 500-1500rpm constantly when idling while the idle is unaffected. This only started happening when the car started lurching. I cleaned the battery connections and checked the ground as well. The car starts fine and runs great half of the time. The worst of it was when the car just turned off at a light. I cranked and cranked and it wouldn't start. I then pushed it into a gas station and waited five minutes and it started right up. I drove it home from there.

I have looked through the archives for similiar scenarios, but have come up empty on a whole. Could the alternator be half performing...on its way out of commision? If it was the alternator wouldn't the other guages be affected? Everything is perfect except for those symptoms.

Thanks everyone for taking the time,

savannahz

[seerex]

I assume you ment the tach was jumping around , i doubt it is the alternator, first check the basics < timing , points and rotor if you are running standard ignition> i would then check coil and the ballast , if you feel confident also check the dizzy for excessive play , another possiblity is a loose ground or wire , but if was betting i would stay with the ignition having something bad or loose , a bit more inof on the car as in year mods stock engine and such might help as well, Jeff

[SavannahZ]

Yes, I meant the tach. It has been a long day! I have to learn about the points system as this is my first older car.

What is the dizzy, the rotor?

The ballist is the rectangular object next to the coil attached to the body of the car?

The car is all stock, except for the L6 engine that is basically stock with three screw carbs. It has an electric fuel pump that I have checked the connection already. I do notice that when I turn the ignition on and I hear the fuel pump whirring that the noise fluctuates. I'm not quite sure that it did this before. It sounds like when I'm driving the car and I turn on the indicator the fuel pump will go up and down in pitch with the indicator's arrow going on and off.

I need to pull out the multi-meter tomorrow and take some readings.3

Thanks,

savannahz

[hls30.com]

It sounds like you are on the right path. If it is only affecting primary ignition and the fuel pump, that really only calls for one circuit. A worsening connection somewhere early in the power grid would explain most of it.

The Dizzy is the distribiutor.

If you want a hand, and the Baby doesn't come tomorrow, give a call.

Will

[seerex]

Sorry about that savannah with the dizzy stuff , the resistor is exactly as you described you can check that with a electric current reader to see if its working correctly , I think you may want to just recheck connections at the fuel pump , I know my brothers 74 has an electric fp and the sound varries with the car not running but ignition on. Alot of the spec and info on double checking timing and gap of the points are in many shop manuals , a very good investment, also might be a cold case of beer for Will if you can get him over to help you out as well , check the wires around the distributor there will be i think 2 and also a resistor on the side as well as in the distributor if the connections get corroded or loose it can case problems like this , good luck

[SavannahZ]

I checked the voltage today and am only getting 5v. I tested this with the ground to negative on the coil and also the ground at the battery. I did this with the ignition position at "on". The battery is showing 12v and so are some of the connectors down the line. Does this mean that there is something impeding flow in the line? Does this mean the coil isn't receiving the current or that it is not putting it out? All of the connections and wires are in good shape and tight as far as I can tell.

I then removed the coil to check the resistance. I have never had anyone show me how to use the tester, so I will give you guys all readings and hopefully someone will decipher them for me.

probes at pos and neg...

2000 = 002

20k = 0.00

with the pos side connected and the neg probe in the center output...

20k = 7.02

Thanks again,

savannahz

[SavannahZ]

o.k., after doing a little research...I am only supposed to be getting around 5-6v because that is what the external resistor is there for. It limits the juice to the points so they don't get worn down quickly?? Is that right? So, I am getting the right amount of voltage to the coil...now I just need to figure out whether the ohms readings I did on the coil are correct or not.

Thanks

[hls30.com]

We are at 2cm, Baby is baking exactly as planned, that gives me some more time to get my hands dirty! Dr. said the plan is to induce if Henry Leyland Stokes is not out by O-dark-thirty on the 29th.

If you haven't corrected your problem let me know, and we can get that going and install the headlight harness onthe '73. Have Deoxit, will travel.

Ok, that isn't going to be his name, but I slept in a Hiliday Inn Express last night.

Too much wife sitting(she took off work today), not enough oily grit under my fingernails. I must be going into shock.

Will

[SavannahZ]

Will,

I was going to give you a call here in the next couple of days. I have school tomorrow, but could definitely have you over tomorrow in the morning or after five...or thursday morning/afternoon??

I can't believe that we live so close to each other. Let me know what times are good for you!

"Baby is baking exactly as planned" --now that's funny--congratulations again!!

Talk to ya soon,

---Jonathan

[hls30.com]

You Pick it, Wife is working 9-6, I am free for the whole day-was going to run upto the farm, but not with the rain. Loading and unloading a car in the wet is no fun!

There is alway the weekend.

I can go pick up the '73 pretty much whenever.

Will