L.E.D Solutions for dash and other LIGHTS?

[TomoHawk]

Those are 12 VOLT l.e.d.s, usually they are 1.5 volts., so you'd need 8 of them for your 12-volt system, so you can avoid using the dropping resistor. PLUS, these must be specially made with an internal resistor.

[mperdue]

Not sure if this helps anyone or not but the Infinity FX45 and G35 come with LED tail lights (ever notice how quickly they turn on and off when they hit the brakes?) Anyway, maybe those could be adapted to the Z somehow, but then again the stock Nissan/Inifinty parts are probably very expensive. Just throwing it out there...

Michael

[Xargon321]

what are the sizes of the bulbs in the dash, and in the tail lights and the turns signals and marker lights, more importantly what sizes are the bases are the ones in the 3 gauges in the middle of the dash(pod gauges?) superbrightleds.com has quite a selection that looks like they will work.

[Xargon321]

2 1157-R12 Red LED bulb Stoplight/taillight

4 1156-R12 Red LED bulb Rearturn signal and taillight

2 1156-W12 White LED bulb reverse lights

2 1157-A12 Amber LED bulb front parking lights/turnsignal

6 WLED-6 LED bulb 194 type bulbs for speedo and tach(not sure on the quanity needed)

3 BA9s-G Green LED bulb 9mm base type that i hope will fit in the pod gauges not sure

are they the right ones to at least replace the outside lights? aside from the bottom two anyway, and the bottom two will they work i was looking at some wide angle white ones for the pod gauges i know they will lose some of their brightness going from white to green but they are wide angle.

[Zs-ondabrain]

I looked and it seems like the "wide viewing angle BA9s bulbs" would work nicely in the pods as well as the speedo and tach area.

I used my scanner to enlarge my wiring diagram for the 240Z and printed out all four corners to make one BIG map of the diagram. I found that the side markers, tail lights, and front parking lights as well as the dash lights, ALL come from (1) wire coming out of the light switch on the column. And the contacts on the dimmer switch "potentiometer" wear out over time.

I'm in the process of designing a "kit" to fix the problem for those who don't wish to convert to "L.E.D.'s. It consists of...

1)a relay after the switch to give a true uninterupted 12 volts to that wire.

2) four new ground wires that can connect in the form of a 'T' to give a better ''point of contact'' ground to all 4 corners of the car.

With my business license, I might be able to get the "LED" bulbs for the dash lights at a discount if I order them in Bulk, and still sell them to you guys at a discount when you buy the kit

I'm trying to make it so we can upgrade our cars without having to "cut" up the car or the harness. the relay that I mentioned earlier would use a stock location for it's ground, a new, fused, heavy gauge wire from the battery to the relay, and you would only have to cut ONE wire and use the supplied connectors to attach it to the relay harness.

let me know what you guys think as well as what you think something like that would be worth to you, (what would you spend)?? when I finish the prototype and test it on my Z, I'll take pics and let you see it (the kit).

Dave.

[Bambikiller240]

Dave: I can only speak for myself, but I wouldn't cut even 1 wire of my OEM harnesses to install ANY mod/upgrade/fix. Is there any way around having to do that?

My wiring has lasted 33 years without any butchery, I don't want to be the oneto break the chain.

[abas]

I'm with you there Carl, I don't want to butcher my harnes either. IMO LEDS seem a good way to go without cutting the harness (but expensive).

To cut down on the cost of LEDs is it possible to prioritise which bulbs should changed first? I would assume the brake and indicator bulbs first as they provide the voltage 'spike' in the system when used which provides the excess heat? or is it the bulbs which run continuously when switched on ( dash and taillights) that cause the damage?

Also is it possible to leave say one indicator bulb each side of the car as non LED to avoid having to change the flasher units or put resistor kits across the indicator LED's?

Dave, when you converted to LED did you have any problems getting LEDs for the rear lights that fit through the bulb holes in the light housings? Some of the replacement LEDs look too big to fit

thanks

Andrew

[hls30.com]

Dave, when I send the harness and ends from the 76 and the 2+2 I will also send you 100 or so of the ultra Bright white leds and resistors, and what ever else I can drum up in hopes of helping your efforts. (out on Wed/Thurs)

Will

[Zs-ondabrain]

Carl,

I totally understand, and like I said," I'm working on it".

Abas,

If a complete conversion of LED's is made, an electronic flasher would have to be used. IMO the resistors you speak of would possibly put that resistive load back on the system, But I could be wrong, I can't remember. The LED's that I bought at the auto parts store fit just fine through the hole, Yes, they did LOOK big but I think thats an optical illusion, "glass vs. solid mass and leds"

Will,

That sounds great!! I'll do my best. and did you have any thing in particular in mind for the LED's? side marker-tail light- dash- disco ball?

Let me know,

Dave.

[Xargon321]

isent the tach and speedo the 194 type? the wedge, what size are the side markers?

also it looks like the midge bulb BA7 bulbs look like they will fit in some of the switch lights

[dwinthrup]

if you want to use leds to light up your speedo and tach use a couple of 4500 mcd leds if you go to bright you will see it thruogh your gauge or have on spot brighter than the other and you would have to put in a lot of resitors and a new relay. it would look nice if you could do it but the time is nuts and all the connections

[Xargon321]

Superbrightleds.com has a lot of led bulb already ready to go just got to find ones that will work in place of the reg bulbs

Zs-ondabrain is my list correct for the leds for the outside lights?(type color and quanity?)