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rust sucks


e_racer1999

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I'd think the first place quoted you 10k as they don't want the job. The biggest problem I've found here where I live is no one wants to do real fabrication work anymore. All the panel shops are interested in is crash repair, where all they do is put new panels on....not much real "panel beating" to it anymore.

Apparently there was one old guy around here that was a master with old metal....but he shut down his shop a few years ago. Now there's no one. :(

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Historically body shops lose their hat a$$ and overcoat doing these jobs. Too many hidden suprises to cover in the average "give me a price" quote. Only way the shop can make out is "time and materials" and that can leave the custoomer bleeding on the ground.

Body men make their money on collision "quick in quick out turn the $$$$ basis"

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I'm finding the same thing as Bruce describes.

I'm very lucky in that my old mechanic flatmate has a good pal who is a panel beater from the old school. When I told him I had a 240z he just said "NO". He had been stung working on 240's before and proclaimed that they rust from the inside out, sometimes you can just keep cutting and cutting and cutting, till you have nothing left. However, he came around and is amazed how rust free mine is. I thought it was very bad but me must have seen some horrors.

So Jason, don't dispair, and DON'T tell your fiancee about the ugly rust monster. As others have said, take your time and you can do a lot of things yourself to save money. Just ask the panel guy what state he wants it in and ask his advice on what you can do yourself. Get as many quotes as you can be bothered getting and then and only then make an informed decision.

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A couple of replies to this "good 'ol fashioned rust thread":

I'll be doing reports from the field as I get along with the two babes. 26 is going to be dipped real soon and I think this process will be unique and interesting. The dip for the chassis alone will be $1200. I chose dipping for the very "rusting from the inside out" comment. I will probably do blurbs on hole patching with 26, but 27 is going to have her fender arches replaced with TABCO panels. This will require the inner lip to be repaired and fit. We seem to have an opportunity to to do a floor or two. I need to see what 26 looks like when she is dipped. If her driver's floor would be easier to replace than patch, I will do the passenger floor in 27 with a full kit from Charlie Osborne.

The comments about finding someone willing to do the metal work are right on. My two favorite "pros" (you should see their work) laughed at me - told me I didn't have enough money - and turned me down flat. And that was discussing 26! They don't know about 27. Poor 27 is a disaster compared to 26. The body guy I am dealing with is stricktly time and materials. I will be paying him bi-weekly for his hours so as to not interfere with his business cash flow. $40 per hour is dirt cheap in this business.

Some of my research is leading me to believe that the very early cars were produced in pairs of colors. Evidently, the dark green and "tan" interior scheme was quite popular and a higher percentage were made. I bought one like yours, Stephen, on eBay and never got it. One of my great eBay stories :stupid:

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LOL.... aww... poor 27! i know i have no right to complain when compared with you, but considering that i only make $9K a year after child support and this car is my only, it's very hard for me to get this done.... i would LOVE to dip my car and do all new panels, but unfortunately i probably picked the wrong car for my budget (but how could i choose another?)
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