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Hard to shift, gear clash...


The Wingnut

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Hey, folks.

I've got a early '74 260 with a 5-speed swapped in. It's becoming progressivly harder to shift into first and somewhat hard in other gears, especially when not moving. I'm getting grinding / clashing when shifting. I've taken to double cltuching and heel-toing in order to get the shifter through the gates while driving. The problem is at its worst when the car is cold, and when warm, it's atually not too bad of a problem, although it's still difficult to shift at times.

I'm told that the throwout bearing might have been put in backward, or is going out, making the clutch not disengage completely. If it was put in backward, it may be getting machined down and made thinner, causing the clutch not to completely disengage. I'm not completely sure this is the problem.

I've got a throwout bearing to put in, but I'm wondering if I've got the right part. Could anyone give me part numbers for a 4-speed bearing and a 5-speed bearing?

Thanks!

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Installer would have to be real Stoopid to istall T.O. bearing backwards. It's real obvious which way it goes. T.O. bearing is the same for all 1970 thru 1989 Z cars

If it is worse when the box is cold, it may be that synchos are going and someone put in thicker oil to quiet it down for a while.

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So if I ordered a TO bearing for a 280, I should have got the proper bearing regardless of what trans / clutch yoke / clutch that I have? That's a relief...

I forgot to add that the car now creeps forward while in gear with the clutch in, but that's probably because the clutch isn't completely disengaged.

Is there anything else that might cause this problem, or am I right in thinking it's the TO bearing going out?

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if the car moves forward and the clutch pedal is pressed in, its not engaging fully and very well could cause the grinding

It would be "not disengaging from the flywheel" if the car creeps forward, which indeed could cause the grinding. (I know, I know, when clutch is "engaged", the flywheel is "disengaged")

Could be caused by either, or both hydraulic cylinders not functioning properly. Low fluid levels, or could also be the hole in the clutch pedal arm where the clutch m/c connects is ovalled and thus pedal movement is wasted taking up the slack there instead of moving fluid to fully operate the m/c and slave cylinder.

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My gearbox used to behave in a similar manner. I changed the oil and it was like a whole new box. Quite an amazing difference. I'd recommend you change the oil before go playing with the clutch. It's cheap and there's no harm in giving it a go.

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Hey Carl, long time no see. You actually met my friend AJ (the wingnut) at the rio vista show - he was the guy with a '72 police package plymouth fury.

We finished everything in about 2 hours. Initially I thought the problem was elsewhere. When wingnut brought the car in, the clutch pedal had almost no pressure. Flushed tranny fluid (stupid filler plug was bolted solid, couldn't move it, so I filled it through the reverse plug). yanked out master and slave cyliders, replaced them (used MC and slave from my 240z), replaced line, new gear oil in the differential. Put cleaned out the clutch lines, adjusted the MC rod, put it all back in, bled the line, wingnut took it around the block a couple of times, it runs like a champ!

I had a wrong diagnosis of the problem based on the description, but it's all good now.

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Hi Alex! Good to hear from you and glad the car is fixed.

I do remember meeting your friend with the Plymouth Fury at the Rio Vista meet. That was a really fun day. I hope Dan will be able to have the show again.

How is your car coming along? I'm looking forward to seeing it on the road (flashing past me no doubt) one of these days.

Take care!

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