26th-Z Posted November 21, 2004 Share #13 Posted November 21, 2004 Those are spindle bobs for the rear doomafrachi allowing control of pich an yawn which is critical down the back straight at Daytona (ahhh Daytona). Saw those made out of carbon fiber last year. They are also good for about 2-1/2 ounces of downforce because of less drag-queen.Superb machine work BTW. Do I win? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panchovisa Posted November 22, 2004 Author Share #14 Posted November 22, 2004 Victor, your on the right track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hls30.com Posted November 22, 2004 Share #15 Posted November 22, 2004 Ok, first the 100% correct answer, I know no body will be able to dissagree with it, and that makes it correct. Drum roll please....It is exactly what you say it is, and does exactly what you say it does-tell me I am wrong!Now as to what it looks like;It looks like an outer pivot for the rear suspension, and a replacement for the inner pivot on the front suspension, to remove the use of any bushings, add the ability to change castor, camber and front to rear wheel adjustment for a true and constant dialing in of the suspension and allow a true alignment on all four wheels as a system instead of just individual components.Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panchovisa Posted November 22, 2004 Author Share #16 Posted November 22, 2004 The first paragraph is of course correct.I wish it was everything you said in the second paragraph, but it's not. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hls30.com Posted November 22, 2004 Share #17 Posted November 22, 2004 I figured as well as you made it, and as much as part of it looks like a spindlepin-it just had to be... :laugh: Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tholt29 Posted November 22, 2004 Share #18 Posted November 22, 2004 It looks like you have 2 sets of parts in each photo. So there are 2 shafts with each set, so I'm assuming these are inner and outer pivots for a rear control arm setup. The machined block is the inner mount(?) and looks to have an oblong hole for the spherical bearing (hard to tell from the photo), so you use the jam nuts to adjust toe the toe angle. I assume it will utilize rod ends to attach the inner and outer pivots and that's how you control camber?The parts I don't understand are; (1) the inner sleeve that fits inside the housing has a flat on the back side so I assume that flat prevents the shaft from rotating, so the spherical bearings are only to allow for misalignment, not for rotation.(?) (2) The sleeve on the shorter shaft... what's that for? I am assuming that shorter shaft fits through the stock hub mount, but I'm probably wrong.(3) How does the housing mount? Is it missing a mating part or some mounting holes/features?(4) No obvious provision for a sway bar mountTom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panchovisa Posted November 22, 2004 Author Share #19 Posted November 22, 2004 Tom, first paragraph mix of right and wrong.(1) dead on(2) are you sure your wrong?(3) figure it out and your almost home. Remember I said they were photos of a portion of complete design. Whats missing?(4) see my gallery to see my sway bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted November 22, 2004 Share #20 Posted November 22, 2004 Outer spindle pins and attachment device that adjusts for camber and toeTo finish and install, machine the bottom of the rear hub (the part where the spindle pin goes in) to fit into rectangular recesses of the top large machined part. Weld the long round bushings to rounded recess on top large machined part. Machine away center part of the bottom of the rear hub so it fits on. Put short spindle pin through and lock down with bolt and jam nut shown.Lower arm just goes onto large machined part with long spindle pin as usual. Spherical bearing can be adjusted in and out for toe in with bolts and jam nuts.Now there needs to be a camber adjusting part. Some part than can fit between bottom of the rear hub and top of the large machined part than can be somehow rotated or completely changed out that will move the hub in and out to change the effective length of the lower arm. It must fit very tightly into the rectangular machined recesses so geometry can't change when in use, perhaps some sort of clamping device may even be employed here. Or perhaps just rotate the large machined part itself to achieve that.After installation of the item, It appears the outboard end of the control arm will be lower than stock, resulting in some camber increase during suspension compression?Or maybe not.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panchovisa Posted November 23, 2004 Author Share #21 Posted November 23, 2004 BINGO, Good work John!It attaches just as you figured. The most important aspect of the design is that it is MEANT to lower the outer end of a-arm. You didn't identify this as desireable, but you did identify it! No other intermediate pieces are needed, the "key-ways" keep it located once short pin is installed.This will correct the "camber gain/loss curve" back to approximately what it was before lowering the car (and inner a-arm pivots). During hard cornering the loaded side of car will have bottom of strut move farther out from static position (tire will lean in more from fixed upper mount) and the unloaded side will have bottom of strut move closer in from static position (tire will lean out more from fixed upper mount). The net effect will be tires better cambered for maximum cornering, and less undesireable camber change on one/two wheel bumps/rebounds.Adjustable toe-in/out is 2nd most important feature. I am running 335/35ZR17 tires which are about 13.5 inches wide. I definately want them pointed in a straight line!!! You know that sometimes race cars take a tweak (crunch!) now and then don't ya Crash.Fine adjustment of camber/track width is least important feature.It also allows use of stock a-arms and urethane bushings which most people have already. Since it is a bolt on "camber compensating/correcting device" it should be race legal in all classes that allow such devices. Besides you can't weld onto strut housing because it's ductile iron (brazing just doesn't cut it for high performance suspenion parts anyway!) The only other way to realy get adjustable toe is custom a-arms with rod ends (expensive, and don't correct geometry problems from lowering). The ecentric bushings that some use only function by binding up the pivot points un-naturally and throwing other things out of wack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted November 23, 2004 Share #22 Posted November 23, 2004 Nicely made piece. It looks expensive to make though. Looks like something a gunsmith might come up with. What is it the material? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panchovisa Posted November 23, 2004 Author Share #23 Posted November 23, 2004 The material on my prototype is just 1018 which I will be nickel plating. The production parts will be stainless steel. I got way to many hours and burned up cutters in this, the production version will be much less labor intensive.Congradulations again, I will be getting in touch with you when test version is ready (please be patient, this stuff doesn't happen over night). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dead Roman Posted November 23, 2004 Share #24 Posted November 23, 2004 panchovisa said: The material on my prototype is just 1018 which I will be nickel plating. The production parts will be stainless steel. I got way to many hours and burned up cutters in this, the production version will be much less labor intensive.Congradulations again, I will be getting in touch with you when test version is ready (please be patient, this stuff doesn't happen over night).so when you start producing these, are they going to be street tested/legal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now