Fix for Slow Wipers

[EScanlon]

...wax your windscreen ..........helps the wipers dissipate the water quicker and makes it easier to see in the rain.

With as many cars out there that have incredibly obvious swirl marks in the paint job marring an otherwise nice shine, I'm not sure I would want that crap on my windshield distorting things.

If you want to do this, then use Rain-X which SHEETS the water off and you don't have to use your wipers as much or as often.

Trust me, with all the oil, rubber grime and other misted crap that gets on your windshield, WAX is definitely NOT what you want to do.

Enrique

[hls30.com]

RainX-I drove my '73 four years with no wipers-No buildup, and will not trap sand and grit for the wipers to grind into the windshield just as Enrique said!

[Bambikiller240]

Yeah, RAIN-X is good. Some Parts stores carry RAIN-X Windshield Washer Fluid (for your washer bottle) in addition to the regular RAIN-X liquid. The RAIN-Xwasher bottle fluid is good for a quick refresh on the fly of the RAIN-X protection of your windshield.

[Inf]

I have never used the wipers except when the inspection guy asks me to turn them on every year. I always keep a fresh coat of rain-x on, works out great. I find it needs refreshing after a heavy downpour though or it doesn't seem to work as well the next time around.

[TomoHawk]

Tomo, your race boat is what my generation called slot cars. In your case the it's a slot car with a battery built in. Sure a SMALL motor. Large electrics in this case, NO. Have you ever had a bad heater fan magnet, alternator magnet, starter magnets? The magnetic field is created not existing. Good line of thought though.

Daniel, you need to inform yourself. I don't get my racing motors from Radio Shack! My $150 neodym motors will give you 1 horsepower! On 7.5 volts! (6 cells). But the motor in my example was one of the (cheap) $45 ones. Sad that it went bad; I had it tuned perfectly, and it got overhauled after every race day.

FYI, the wiper motor, heater motor, starter motor, et al, have PERMANENT magnets in them. The starter having the better magnets, because it's in a high-heat area. the starters on old muscle cars go bad because of the heat from the headers! (been there- seen it happen). The alternator has an electromagnetic coil, hence the need for the 'energizing' circuit.

Thanks for your minimum compliment.

BTW, the rumcurrent world speed record for electric r/c boat is 121 MPH! Faster than ANY I.C.-powered (gas OR nitro) model!

http://rumrunnerracing.com/ (top-center photo)

[EScanlon]

Just remember to NOT use the Anti-Fog Rain-X for the inside of the windows. That stuff is like wiping motor oil mixed with super glue to your glass. It will NOT come off, and you can't get it to be completely clear.

Enrique

[Bambikiller240]

YES, that Anti-Fog RAIN-X is the worst thing I've ever experienced on glass.

Do they still sell it? If so, WHY?

[Daniel]

Tomo, My intent was to reference a style of motor. It was not to appear to belittle your RC's. I am aware of the magnets in the motors as discussed in my previous post with EScanlon.

[TomoHawk]

no problem, Daniel

If you're talking about 'magnet-less' motors, they need an electronic controller to make them go. Examples are computer floppy & hard drives, which still have magnets, but those are on the (armature part), and the coils are fixed. Except for the alternator, which isn't a motor, and the coil(s) are turned via engine & belt.

[gnosez]

Well, for what it's worth I had my motor rebuilt and it about 25-40% faster now then before. I also greased all pivot points too. I find that Rain-X causes the wiper blades to drag which puts more of a load on the wiper motor.

[TomoHawk]

What was done to rebuild your motor? Did you use the same plastic bag to protect your motor?

thx

[Walter Moore]

For the record, the only DC motors that require an "electronic controller" are "brushless" motors, not magnet-less motors. They (brushless motors) have to be electronically commutated to keep the moving field produced by the stationary windings in the stator ahead of the permanent magnet of the armature.

Permanent magnet DC motors of any size are a fairly recent development. It used to be that all DC motors had windings on both the armature (the moving part) and the stator (the stationary part). Really large motors (like the ones on train locomotives) are still mostly that way because the flux density of those motors is so great it tends to demagnetitize permanent magnets.

Sorry, that had nothing at all to do with the discussion at hand... just painful flash-backs to my motor's class of long ago. I still remember that the equations for series wound motors were completely different than shunt wound motors vs series-shunt vs shunt-series vs... Arrgh! The MADNESS!!!!!