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Door panel plastic replacement?


jmark

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I think the Dynamat would be too thick. I'd put that inside the door on the outside skin. In an earlier post EScanlon mentioned just using a cheap shower curtain liner for the vapor barrier between the door and the inside door panel.

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The main reason I went with the shower curtain behind the interior door panel was that I wanted to be able to remove and replace easily and if necessary, CHEAPLY.

IMO, the Dynamat, Brown Breadk, Q-Pad, etc, would be both thicker and much more expensive to work with. Then when you cut all the holes to leave the access holes for the window and lock mechanism open, you've really reduced it's effectiveness.

Granted, an application of the material directly behind the speaker (if you have your speakers installed on the door panels --- shudder--) will do a lot to reduce the noise and vibration generated in the door plenum by the speaker. However, a LOT of the noise inside the car is due to the resonance of so much undampened sheet metal all over the car.

The interior of the doors, the interior of the rear quarter panels, the floor pan, the roof, the hatch skin, these are all areas that will resonate and in turn generate noise and transmit whatever noise they absorb from the outside. For that reason, I used POR all over the inside of these panels, then I put a layer of Q-Pad over the inside of the outside sheet metal. This alone made a very significant improvement in the noise inside the car. Then all I needed was a vapor barrier to keep the moisture that was bound to collect inside the doors (from the window), away from the inside of my brand new door panels.

That is where the shower curtain comes in. It is durable enough that it can be removed (I used 3M General Purpose Adhesive) from the door, and can be re-glued and put back on.

As far as killing two birds with one stone, I think that to get the BEST of both worlds, you would need to address each one separately as I did. But then, that's MY opinion.

Enrique

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  • 4 years later...

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