Engine runs only when choked...

[TomoHawk]

Zhome.com has a good section on adjusting the carbs. They have a video too.

[sblake01]

By the way, how do you sync the carbs? I've never had to do it before.

Thanks

As Tommohawk said go to http://zhome.com and look for their 'index of technical articles.' In there you should find a couple of good write-ups on tuning S.U. carbs.

[e_racer1999]

an investment in ztherapy's video(s) might not hurt either.

[Sean240Z]

240Zdragon72,

I’m quite familiar with synching carbs and I have a UniSync Tool. I also have the ZTherapy video I can loan to you. Let me know when you’re available this weekend, and I’ll come over and give you a hand.

Cheers

[240Zdragon72]

Thanks Sean240. I will give you a call, or write you when I figure out what work has for me. (My plane came back yesterday.... :tapemouth :sick: )

Talk to you later.

[240Zdragon72]

I had some time before work and pulled the carbs off. They are getting fuel, but it is not clear. The fuel looks to be a coffie color. I have no idea what it means other than my tank may be rusty on the inside. I would have to drain the fuel I put in and drop the tank for further inspection. This is going to be a pain in my :tapemouth

[e_racer1999]

oohhh.... a full carb recondition sounds in order.... you might also want to check your banjo filters to see if they are clogged up..

[240Zdragon72]

I have put on all new gaskets to eliminate leaks, set my fuel press. regulator to 4psi, and tried to start her again. Same thing, only this time it will not kick over in choke. Then I started to see if I was getting spark, starting at the coil to the plugs. Sparked out of the coil, but was intermittent at the plugs (sometimes there was no spark at all). I think I may need a new cap and rotor.

[Zedrally]

You may want to investigate the distributer as a whole.

ie, are the bearings shot,causing the rotor to wooble? Have you checked the points? Capacitor?

Intermittant spark can be caused by all the above as well.

[240Zdragon72]

How can this be? The engine was running 2 hours before the swap. I touched nothing on the carbs or the distributor. I will have to buy one thing at a time. Coil, distributor cap, rotor, pickups, ect.

Will keep you posted.

[beandip]

Sorry I am geting in here late , but sounds like more than one thing has gone gunnybag . Inside the dist. the plate that holds the points , in a electronic dist. as well this plate is a two part disk. It is seperated by ball bearings held in place with plastic ''keepers'' . Over the years of heat the plastic parts brake down and the balls fall out . At best they fall to the botton of the dist past the cintrifucial advance systime. In any case if this is the problem the timing will be majorly effected. Look to replacing with a ZX dist . this happends with them as well if you have one of them . I dident want to mention all of this as if you start working on too many things at once you will be having questions of what the problem is from many different directions. The fact that the engine runs better with a richer mix could be caused by a weak spark. You are going to do more checking . Since you have more than one Z engine do you have a different dist that is known to be good? If so try it and go form there. my 2cts

[240Zdragon72]

Beandip,

I do have another ZX dist. with the E12-80 modual (same as on the engine now), but the mounting plate has a stuck bolt in it. Do you think I should swap the "guts"?