Engine runs only when choked...

[Zedrally]

I put some "weld" over the hole and waited a whole day until I started the engine. She fired right up again and this time there was hardly any smoke out the back. I tried to give it some gas but the back carb only "hissed" at me and the engine wanted to die. After running idel for around 5 minutes, The weld melted off and it was back to smoking and wanting to die out.

I think you have answered your own question?

If the engine runs when the hole is fixed up, then why don't you fix the hole correctly, then start the fine tuning.

[240Zdragon72]

:tapemouth i feel like such an idiot. :stupid: I was hoping to get the engine running before I had fixed the hole. Now I see. I will put the real JB Weld on the hole in the morning. Thank you very much. During this whole thing I had forgotten that it did run pretty good when the hole was pluged.

[240Zdragon72]

I pulled the plugs and looked to see what the condition was. The back 3 had some carbon on them, and the front 3 had carbon mixed with a lot of fuel. Something is not right...so I then took a wire brush and cleaned the carbon off and put the plugs back in. Shot a little starter fluid in the carbs for good measure. Had my friend crank the engine. It ran at a very good idle. I was excited and started to tune the carbs. The front carb was reading high on the Uni-sun guage. (It was at half choke while I was doing the tuning.) I turned the throttle screw on the carb down and then up to see if I can get it to come back to the middle. It stayed up top the whole time. I went to the back carb and it was not doing a dang thing. I placed my hand over the front of it to see if I could feel the air being sucked in. There was hardly any. I started to tune the back one to see if I could get it to change. I would turn a quarter of the way down on the throttle screw and the engine would die. Taking the choke off would also kill the engine. It looks like the front carb was doing all the work to keep the engine running. Ah Man! Back to the drawing board.... :tapemouth very frustrated

[beandip]

Woh, Let's start from the beginning here in setting the carbs. First thing , turn the mixture adjustments all the way up, counter clockwise to the stop. Then back them down 2 1/2 turns that is clockwise. Start the engine and let it warm up COMPLETELY. Then after the engine is warmed up to temp , feel the water hoses , wait untill they feel hot to the touch , dont just look at the gage. Then set the idle to about 900 RPM . Now use the uni-sun and ballance the air mixture. Keeping the idle consistant now start setting the mixture. With the engine running stick your finger inthe throat of the front carb. and lift the piston , this disables the carb and the engine is running on the rear carb. If the engine dies the mixture is too lean , if it continues to run and doesn't just barely then then it is rich. If this test shows the engine dying then turn the mixture adjustment on the REAR carb clock wise 1/4 turn. Now repeat this with the other carb disableing the rear carb and adjusting the front one. At this point check the timing , since you have been working with it as well . I set mine at 10 d BTDC I have the same dist. Go back to the carbs and readjust the air ballance . then varify the mixture. When satisfied dial the idle to 750 . Now when you ''blip'' the throttle to full open and closed QUICKLY and you get a backfire from one of the carbs , richen that one 1/8 richer, it's a ''lean pop'' . Repeat again untill this no longer happens. All the best. Gary Hope this is or help.

[240Zdragon72]

I removed the 3 bolt carbs and installed the 4 bolt ones that came with the car. Woulden't you know, the car runs...and not with the choke on this time. I was trying to get the idel set, but I could only get it to stableize at the first hash mark on the Uni-sun. Idel was way too high...judgeing from what the tach was reading (1700 rpm). I would "blip" the throttle and get a backfire from both carbs. Then at one point it would backfire through the exhaust. The car was running out of gas so I did it one last time and there was no backfire. This morning I am going to get gas and take her to the auto hobby shop and see if they can help me with the tuning. Thank you everyone who has helped me with my problem. Next time I promise not to spaz-out so much!

[240Zdragon72]

I haven't been writing here, only when my wife gets on. For now, the car has not been running good. I changed all the timing parts, installed new gaskets, hoses, spark plugs, and set timing to 0 deg. TDC. Before I left for the sand, the car could make it down the street and back but with a lot of babying the throttle. The carbs are synced and fuel mixture does not seem to matter, they seem to act the same at any possition. My diagnosis is that:

1) My Battery is weak- need to buy a good one when I get back

2) My alternator is bad or going bad

3) My voltage regulator is bad

To add to the problems, before I left, I let the car run at idel (the only way it would run good), I noticed smoke coming from the inside of the dash. Something is really wrong with this car, or it just dosen't like me. What would some expert opinions be as to what the problem is? (I have already tried the Priest opinion.. no luck there)

Edit: I know, I'll remove the engine and all wiring, then I won't be dissapointed when it donen't work. :tapemouth

[240Zdragon72]

I wrote to Painless Performance on the dash wiring problem. They have a wire harness that I would have to "customize" to the Z. Has anyone had much luck with Painless? (I figure what else do I have to loose?)

-Thanks

[240Zdragon72]

Now I am having a problem tryng to figure out where to relocate the battery in the hatch area. I heard that right behind the passenger seat, but won't that block the trap door on that side? Need some suggestions. Thanks

[beandip]

I haven't been writing here, only when my wife gets on. For now, the car has not been running good. I changed all the timing parts, installed new gaskets, hoses, spark plugs, and set timing to 0 deg. TDC. Before I left for the sand, the car could make it down the street and back but with a lot of babying the throttle. The carbs are synced and fuel mixture does not seem to matter, they seem to act the same at any possition. My diagnosis is that:

1) My Battery is weak- need to buy a good one when I get back

2) My alternator is bad or going bad

3) My voltage regulator is bad

To add to the problems, before I left, I let the car run at idel (the only way it would run good), I noticed smoke coming from the inside of the dash. Something is really wrong with this car, or it just dosen't like me. What would some expert opinions be as to what the problem is? (I have already tried the Priest opinion.. no luck there)

Edit: I know, I'll remove the engine and all wiring, then I won't be dissapointed when it donen't work. :tapemouth

If you have the timing set at 0 TDC , the engine WILL run crappy. Set it at 10 Before Top Dead Center . This is where it is supposed to run . You will never be able to adjust the carbs with the timing at ZERO . Before you go out and spend a bunch of money on a battery and alternater have them tested . At the vary least the batt. If you are not driving the car regulary the batt will go dead , especially if the top surface is dirty. Gary Smoke means over heating of the wires , either a short or bad connection that is corroded . Start cleaning the connections , viniger on a Q-tip will clean the brass , just be sure to rince with water and dry completely before you reassamble. Dilectric grease will help to prevent further corrosion,

[240Zdragon72]

Thanks Beandip, I hope it is not too late to save the wires.

[240Zdragon72]

I hooked up a timing light and it is showing 10 deg. Still having the backfire and studdering rise in rpm. New aftermarket external electric fuel pump, clear fuel filter, new spark plugs, and fuel hoses. Still the same old studder and when I drove it around the block it would get to a certan rpm (tach does not work right) it would stay there and not rise anymore. More accelerator at this point, the engine would want to die. Now, I did some resurch on removing the "smog stuff" on the balance tube. Did so but now the car has a black cloud of smoke comming from the exhaust, stop studdering though. What happened? The posts all said to just pull them off, all I needed was the vac. line for the brakes, pvc hose and crank hose went to the air cleaner housing. Am I running way too rich or too lean? Help! Thanks.

[240Zdragon72]

I am getting rid of all my carb stuff and N/A F54 engine minus the carbs. I woulden't put what I went through with these SU's on my worst enemy. Making way for the turbo. Thanks for the help anyway, I guess this carb gremlin was too much.

-Later :hurt: