U-Joint removal

[sideshowbob]

The C-Clips are around the small edge of the cups you see in this picture. In the upper left, on the remaining cups you might be able to make out the c-clip still holding it in. I prefer to knock on it with a punch/screwdriver and hammer untill there is a nice gap between the clip and the cup, then finish with a pair of pliers. This prevents the clip from becoming a projectile.

[=Enigma=]

The C-Clips are around the small edge of the cups you see in this picture. In the upper left, on the remaining cups you might be able to make out the c-clip still holding it in. I prefer to knock on it with a punch/screwdriver and hammer untill there is a nice gap between the clip and the cup, then finish with a pair of pliers. This prevents the clip from becoming a projectile.

Bob, your pic doesn't seem to be working:

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[sideshowbob]

Are you at work?

[sideshowbob]

Because the URL is actually : http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/5519/1857/1024/rear%20axle%20shaft-6.jpg

You seem to be behind some sort of proxy/filter that is restricted from that domain.

[wheee!]

I will probably need this thread sooner or later

[Chickenman]

Lots and lots of penetrating fluid also helps. On really stubborn U-joints, a Propane torch to heat the yoke may be necessary.  Or Freeze spray to shrink the cups.The C-Clips on the inside of the yokes can also be a PITA.

Buy GOOD quality U-Joints. Either OEM Nissan, Moog HD or Spicer HD. You do NOT want to do this job twice!!

[EuroDat]

You might want to check your propeller dhaft. If its still an original 280Z, its non servicable. The uni-joints are smaller and locked in by means of 4 burrs at the outer end of each cap.

I have a 240Z propeller shaft and rebuilt it with the OEM parts. They also have diferent thickness circlips to get the right tolerances and help reduce vibration.

There might be aftermarket kits for the 280Z, but nissan don't make them. Nissan only quotes a complete propeller shaft.

[Chickenman]

Will a 240Z driveshaft fit a 280Z 5 speed? Or I'm wondering if you can remove the burrs with a Dremel ( 280Z Prop shaft ) and use Internal clips to retain the  U-joints?

[Mark Maras]

 One more thing to add. Always mark the shaft and yokes before you remove the u-joints. If the yoke and shaft are installed 180` out from the orig. position you may have a balance problem. Especially on the prop. shaft. It spins 3 1/2-4 times faster than the axles.

[EuroDat]

7 hours ago, Chickenman said:

Will a 240Z driveshaft fit a 280Z 5 speed? Or I'm wondering if you can remove the burrs with a Dremel ( 280Z Prop shaft ) and use Internal clips to retain the  U-joints?

The Serie II through to the 260Z propeller shaft is about 5mm longer than the 280Z shaft. It should fit and IIRC you have about 20mm free movement to get the locating flange in place on the diff flange.

 

Removing the burrs with a dremel wouldn't be the problem. The biggest problem is in the U-joint cup diameter.

 

U-joint cap diameter:

Propeller shaft 240Z/260Z: 25mm

Propeller shaft 280Z: 22mm

Halfshafts: 28mm

Propeller shaft lengths (Coupes)

240Z Series I: 525mm (I have not measured one to confirm this measurement.)

240Z Series II up to 260Z 11/74: 573mm

280Z: 565mm

Edited January 3, 2016 by EuroDat
Corect Tipo

[Chickenman]

Thanks, so it looks like a 240Z shaft should fit. Just have to check the plunge depth on the front yoke to make sure it doesn't bottom on the main shaft. Only 8mm difference in length, and if memory serves me right, there's lot more clearance than that when you pull the shaft out.