battery hookup

[mmagnus]

I am in the process of running my wiring harness and battery leads. Does anyone have a clear photo of where the positive and negative cable run to. I have looked thru the repair manuals but its not clear. I know this is dumb question but i dont want to screw it up. :stupid:

[Bambikiller240]

Neg cable gets bolted to the upper bolt that secures the starter to the Transmission case.

Pos cable gets attached to the larger of the two studs on the starter solinoid.

[mmagnus]

Neg cable gets bolted to the upper bolt that secures the starter to the Transmission case.

Pos cable gets attached to the larger of the two studs on the starter solinoid.

What about the smaller cable coming off of the positive cable? Any pix?

[MikeW]

What about the smaller cable coming off of the positive cable? Any pix?

That would just be a feature of that particular battery cable and isn't needed.

[Bambikiller240]

What about the smaller cable coming off of the positive cable? Any pix?

The smaller cable comes off the NEG cable, not the POS. It gets screwed to the firewall. There should be a small screw in the firewall that is used for that.

[mmagnus]

Thanks guys. That helps a lot.

[gnosez]

You might want to consider getting a 24"F" battary that has the positive post away and out from under the body. You will need different cables but in the long run I believe it's the right way to go. Just my $.02 (adjusted for inflation) worth..

[TomoHawk]

The smaller cable comes off the NEG cable,gets screwed to the firewall. There should be a small screw in the firewall that is used for that.

Where on the firewall is that first picture? Also, those bolts look rusty, did you treat them to a de-rusting? I'll put both of those spots on my list.

[Bambikiller240]

Well, since the battery is in the picture, I guess it's NEXT TO THE BATTERY!

It is an old bolt and the cad plating is long gone , the entire bolt (along with the terminal) was cleaned up with DeOxiT before winter. The bolt head has since acquired a film of surface rust. Since everything still works normally, I think the DeOxiT is still protecting the threads.

[The C110]

FWIW this is the 240k forum.....

[TomoHawk]

I couldn't tell it was a battery there on the left.

I've been using a copper-based anti-sieze on things like those bolts. Not just because I worked on the formula, and in the lab it showed some interesting electrical properties. Copper anti-sieze worked miracles on exhaust manifiold bolts, even after a few years.

Why not just clear-coat the boltheads? Also, it sound like you give DeOxIt thumbs up?

thx

[Bambikiller240]

I

Why not just clear-coat the boltheads? Also, it sound like you give DeOxIt thumbs up?

thx

I'm too lazy.

"DeOxiT 100" cleaned up my Wiper Motor connector electrical terminals quickly and easily to bright and shiney metal. When I first looked at them, they appeared so filthy and corroded that I feared they would fall apart in my hands. I am pleased with how it works. It won't add metal back, but it removes the corrosion very well, and seems to protect the connectors from corroding again.