Steering rack "refreshening"

[Bambikiller240]

Thanks, I havent checked if my tie rod joints have releif slits in the boots however I should have said in my previous post that I was in the process of filling the lower ball joint. These do not have relief slits and only seem to be sealed by the downward pressure from the steering arm, although likely not airtight, I am a bit concerned about splitting the boot.

My older tierod and ball joint boots had a "nipple" built into the boot with a slit cut into this nipple" for excess grease to escape. See pics.

If any of your boots don't have an obvious relief feature I would be extremely careful in filling them.

[hls30.com]

I filled mine to the point moving them around would force grease out, and then wiped off the excess-don't want to attract dirt to the area.

Will

[drunkenmaster]

Thanks, mine dont have that feature unfortunately.

I filled mine to the point moving them around would force grease out, and then wiped off the excess-don't want to attract dirt to the area.

From where was the grease forced out in your case Will?

[hls30.com]

it came out of the smaller of the two seals, on the second one, I just watched for a movement in the boot, and stopped before forcing the grease out.

Will

[drunkenmaster]

At the risk of sounding too "unknowlegable", how far to you insert the inner tie rod tot he outer tie rod?

What is the method of measuring this as I would guess it would effect your steering, and also be a hassle to redo later as you would have to remove the joint from the steering arm to wind it further in or out?

[hls30.com]

Depends-this is what sets the allignment. The only way to get close is to measure the distance before you take the assembly apart to begin with.

The threaded rod will rotate without dissassembly, that is how the allignment is set by a shop-loosen the nut that endjambs to the tierod end, and turn the whole rod, titghten the rod when the distance is correct-the FSM gives the alignment procedure.

Will

[Bambikiller240]

..........The threaded rod will rotate without dissassembly, that is how the allignment is set by a shop-loosen the nut that endjambs to the tierod end, and turn the whole rod, titghten the rod when the distance is correct-the FSM gives the alignment procedure.

Will

Drunk:

This is what was being talked about when someone refered to moving the rubber bellows and putting a wrench on the machined flats on the inner tierod when trying to loosen the outer T.R from the Inner T.R.

[drunkenmaster]

Of course, I am with you 100% now (finally).

[drunkenmaster]

So anyways, when fitting my new outer tie rods ends, I noticed they had the grease overflow nipple provision mentioned. I packed them with grease and it seems to overflow from the bottom before the boot fills.

This wouldnt appear correct to me? :stupid:

[Bambikiller240]

Not sure I understand where the grease is overflowing from. Do you mean that grease comes out from around the bottom of the boot (where the circular spring secures the boot to the housing?

Maybe squeeze the "overflow nipple" on the boot to make sure it opens to allow grease to come out. That's the only thing I can think of.

[hls30.com]

What Carl said: Inject the grease and squeeze the nipple-tha almost sounds pornographic-I am sure your car will LOVE it!

WIll

[drunkenmaster]

Sorry, I should have explained the photo.

If you look at the very bottom of the tie rod joint you can see the grease squeezing out between the black part and the metallic part.