Here is one picture-the rest qre too dark-it is night time here, and I guess the flash just just isn't cutting it.

There is a left and a right, but the only dfference I could see is where the hole for the grease fitting is, they are mirrored in placement left to right. I do know Carl is right, they are threaded opposite.

I will be happy to take more pictures tomorrow if they will hlep.

Will

Thanks, just to be clear, you have fitted the outer tie rod end to the tie-rod already in that picture right?

No, this is the way they came in the box for replacement.

Will

Oh wow, I didnt realise the whole outer rod is replaced, I thought it was the end joint only.

Nice, Thanks.

It is the whole enchalada!

They also came with grease fittings, castleated nuts and cotter pins-but they were all loose in the bag.

Will

And if you don't buy OEM parts, you *may* find that the parts you receive do not have any provision for grease fittings at all, also no "castellated nuts and cotter pins" (self-locknuts provided instead) Distributor called them "Sealed" and "Lifetime Lubricated". :stupid:

I was shocked when that is what I received.

Should have bought Nissan!

I didn't either, but mine came from the OEM supplier in Japan.

Just bagged and tagged.

Will

RE: outer tie rod ends.

I am having a hell of a time getting them off.

The idea is to turn the lock nut toward the centre of the rack and the tie rod end away from the rack correct?

I have no idea how you guys get the leverage to do this. :sleepy:

Pointers would be excellent.

Remeber the thread is opposit on each end-easy to forget-tightening instead of loosening.

2 big wrenches, or 1 big wrench and a vice. Examine the parts, the end and its mate have flats on them for wrenches or a vice.

Just in case you just need a gobfull, Quit chucking a sickie and give it a burl you mug:laugh: !

Penetrating oil never hurts, and in the last resort, a heatwrench on the nuts will pretty much makeany thing(or anyone ) let go of anything!

Will

You remember that the threads are different on each side, right? Look the threads over carefully to see which direction to attack with a wrench.

If you have separated the outer tie rod from the steering arms, re-attach them "loosely" to keep the outer T/R from turning as you loosen the jam (lock) nut. It's been a couple years since i did this so I don't rememeber the exact details, but I don't recall needing to do anything but the above to loosen the jamb nut. Sprayed a bit of lubricant at the threads of the Inner T/R where they go into the outer T/R just to make the unthreading a bit easier.

If the steering rack is already out of the car, chuck the outer T/R in a vice to hold it, then go after the jamb nut.

EDIT: Will, Stop snorting those diapers and Go to Sleep for chrissakes!

I am coughing my brains out! No diaper duty for a while. I have been sick(medically treatable any way) for 5 weeks-in and out of Pneumonia, but consistantly Acute Bronchitus. The Dr. has finally put me on a script that is starting to turn the tide. I have been a healthy person until this year, next time, I will not wait to "let it pass", it only made it worse. Hopefully the tide is turning, and I can get back to living and being active again. Even sick I got my nuts off(you guys should be ashamed-I ment the jam nuts that are pertinant in this thread)! Perverts!!!

Will

PS-no chrome plating ot polishing on my suspension, I used tiewraps instead of steel rings for the bellows-I thought it would be better to make parts that will get dirty less noticeable, than to highlight the dirt on them!

...........Perverts!!!

Will

I resemble that remark! (I'm a Journeyman!)

PS: Keep on taking your Meds. You aren't as young and resilient as you once were.