Por15

[Murph]

texasz: To tell you the truth I cut a few corners along the way as I simply didn't have the time to do it properly. Not all the paint was removed, so in some parts it is effectively just an expensive top coat. We started by cleaning it with the karcher which pulled up a lot of the old grease, grime and loose paint. Most of the rusty bits or areas with loose paint were then wirewheeled. After that I scrubbed the whole lot of it by hand with a degreaser (of the soapy variety). Gave it a few days to dry, then painted. I painted it with a brush which works fantasticly. The paint levels out quite quickly, so you wont get any brush marks at all.

So ultimately I didn't do as good a job of it as I should or could have, but for the limited time I had available to me, it's a huge improvement on what was there and will stop the rust in the areas that it was a problem.

[beandip]

Datto , sorry to tell you but you cannot cut corners here. Mariene clean that they sell is not just a soap or detergent, that washed off then the Metal ready in important to treat the rust and it does combine with the residue of the cleaner , If the surface is not treated correctly the POR vary likely will peal off. If POR is to be painted over with a top coat , do it while the finish is still tacky. if allowed to cure , it must be sanded. Which is not easy because the POR is so hard, and or painted with ticoat primer . Ticoat primer has a solvent in it that will allow it to bond to the POR , then the top coat of your color can be shot and it will stick . Regular Paint will not stick to POR . I used it extencively on my Z and so far am pleased with it. As stated before , on skin it really stecks , clean off while wet with thinner .Lac. thinner Aceatone works fine.

[Murph]

Ahh well....gotta learn some lessons the hard way. At worst I've lost AU$20 on paint and a few hours of my time.

The sunny will have the engine out again in about a year, so if it's looking like it needs some more attention then, I'll redo it properly.

[Bruce Palmer]

While in the midst of discussing rust and corrosion control coatings, let me throw out a web site which discusses what many consider to be a superior, as well as safer for your health and easier to use alternative to POR.

www.zerorust.com is the site.

Also check out http://www.autobodystore.com/images/boattest.jpg for photos of a heads up test ZR to POR on the motor mounts onna salt water fishing boat.

Make your own choices but be aware there are safer alternatives out there.

[st0878]

I have used allot of POR15 on my Z. Overall I think it's a good product but I wouldn't go so far as to put it everywhere. Once it sets nothing else will stick to it and it's over priced. I used it under the cowel and on the top of front wheel frame. Basically anywhere that water has a tendency to stand. I also did my new pans with it too. It's important to note that POR15 is not a top coat and should be covered with some other paint as it is UV sensitive. There is a short window when the product is set but still tacking that other top coats will stick to it. I used some this weekend and yes I got some on my hands which I'll wear for a few days!

I also experienced the joy of stripping paint from the interior of the car and afer trying just about every abraisive made I can tell you the EASIEST way to do it is with Aircraft paint stripper. Some say that strippers are messy but I don't think they are as messy as kicking up sanding dust everywhere! Couple of coats of this stuff and you will be down to nice shiny undamaged metal in half the time it takes to sand. One last tip is how to get that tar like insulation of the pans is to use a loosly held air hammer with a chisel tip....sounds like it would damage metal but it won't as long as you apply little or no pressure....busts it right up.

I would like to know if anyone knows how to treat the the inside of dog leg and rocker panels?

[texasz]

I also experienced the joy of stripping paint from the interior of the car and afer trying just about every abraisive made I can tell you the EASIEST way to do it is with Aircraft paint stripper.

And where would the average Joe find such a product?

Also, how toxic is it (how bad are the fumes)?

And since the topic of stripping paint has come up... Has anyone used the automotive grade Read Strip product? I saw it on the web somewhere a few months back and can not find a like now but am interested if anyone has used it and what their thoughts are.

[MikeW]

And where would the average Joe find such a product?

Also, how toxic is it (how bad are the fumes)?

"Aircraft paint stripper" is really a generic term. There are many products out there labeled as such and the toxicity certainly varies from product to product. I'd wear breathing protection regardless. You should be able to find some at your local auto parts place.

[Bambikiller240]

You don't want stripper chemicals to come into contact with your body parts either. Nasty chemical burns can result.

[st0878]

Yes paint stripper is some nasty stuff. WEAR GLOVES! You will get some on yourself so have a wet rag laying around. I was wire wheelin some treated paint Sunday and a little speck of it shot in my eyes yeeeeeowwwww......wear goggles too! :pirate:

[Bruce Palmer]

I continue to look for products that are both safe to work withfor the DIYers and effective on the job. This includes getting away from isocyanates in POR to methylene chloride in Aircraft Paint Stripper. To this end there is a water borne paint stripper by the name Removall on the market. Very nice product to work with does not burn skin and does not make goo mess the Aircraft does. I think Sherwin Williams handles the line and I can't recommend it highly enough......