New Z - Great Weekend!

[CoastGuardZ]

Well we had a pretty darn nice weekend here in Charleston. Sunny with highs around 60F. The wife and I got to do some cruising and it was awesome. We went through a parking lot on our way to supper where all the local ricer riff raff hang out and they were all staring with envy... Sweet.

I was able to wash wax and vaccum the Z. I also jacked her up in the air and rolled under her with the creeper checking stuff out. Changed the oil. I drained the differential and replaced the fluid with Castol Hypoy C 80w90. I still have the whine from the drive line. I will be replacing the fluid in the Tranny soon too, but I've got a feeling the diff might need a rebuilding.

Where is that darn clunk coming from?!?! The U joints seem fine... all 6 of them. How can you tell if the Diff mount is bad, because it seems fine. I guess I will be taking on the U joints as a weekend project soon.

Front Right ball joint is TOAST! Crap I tell you. So that is definetly a priority. I'll be replacing both naturally.

Rear struts need to be replaced for sure, and since i'll have the front tore apart for the ball joints I might as well do the front struts too. I've decided to go with KYB's... I put the GR2's in my wifes integra and it made a huge difference.

Plenty of work to do, not enough time. I leave for NorCal on Sunday. See you boys soon.

Nate

[Bambikiller240]

Where is that darn clunk coming from?!?! The U joints seem fine... all 6 of them. How can you tell if the Diff mount is bad, because it seems fine. I guess I will be taking on the U joints as a weekend project soon.

Does the clunk happen as you start from a dead stop, or go into reverse, or shift gears? Or?????? Usually a clunk at these times is the front diff mount. It's a common problem. Ther rubber gets separated from the metal

Only way to know for sure is to pull the front diff mount. Usuallly you cannot see the damage without pulling it. Best to do it when you drain the trans, so you can pull the driveshaft. Support the front of the diff with a floor jack and pull the front mount. Replace and reassemble. Not very difficult at all.

Why are you replacing the U-Joints?

[CoastGuardZ]

Carl,

I get the clunk whenever throttle is initially applied, ie: starting, shifting, speeding up, and also I get it sometimes during deceleration. I figured I would just replace the diff mount and the u joints at the same time. But following your advice I will replace the diff mount and change the tranny fluid on the same day... guess I better order the part now.

Thanks,

Nate

[Bambikiller240]

That sure "sounds like" the front diff mount issue IMO.

[ROOPZ]

You know...I have been fighting the "clunk" since I got my Z. I have changed everything minus the rear wheel bearings and still have the clunk! I KNOW it isnt the front mount. I replaced the Diff with one from a 300ZX last summer and it fixed it "mostly" for a short time but it is back with a vengeance now. My last ditch effort is to tear down the rear hubs and re-build them. Can you tell Im dreading to do this?! All I have heard is its a B@#$h! I hope it is your front mount. I know your pain!

Best of luck!

[Bambikiller240]

You know...I have been fighting the "clunk" since I got my Z. I have changed everything minus the rear wheel bearings and still have the clunk! I KNOW it isnt the front mount. I replaced the Diff with one from a 300ZX last summer and it fixed it "mostly" for a short time but it is back with a vengeance now. My last ditch effort is to tear down the rear hubs and re-build them. Can you tell Im dreading to do this?! All I have heard is its a B@#$h! I hope it is your front mount. I know your pain!

Best of luck!

Can't see how the hubs/wheel bearings could cause it. Have you opened the diff and verified the set up (back lash, etc)? Since the symptoms changed when you replaced the diff (even temporarily) that is where I'd look next.

[CoastGuardZ]

oh yeah, something else. She developed a new "issue". While moving, I hear a "pop" and the speedometer needle bounces from above to below the actual speed. I'm pretty sure it's just the cable binding, and since the speedo needle has a little bounce to it anyway I figured I'd pick up a new one.

Could a tranny or engine mount cause the clunk? Just a thought.

Nate

[Bambikiller240]

It's possible, can you isolate where the sound is coming from?

The Frt Diff mount is a more common cause. Beyond saying that, an inspection of each for signs of damage would be in order (and not too difficult to do).

[ROOPZ]

Well,

I agree with you about the hubs not making the clunk. I honestly cannot figure it out and it is driving me crazy! Are all Z's like this? Here are my symptoms.

When I hit a bump in the road...there is a loud bang! Ive checked for loose fittings or anything that may cause it but no avail. The rear wheel (I think it is the driver side) makes a clicking noise that is most pronounced when backing out of my driveway. Lately I have began to hear the same noise only louder when taking a corner. The clunk I hear is when I change gears or if I intentionally hit and let off the throttle? It sounds just like the front mount but I know it isnt because I have changed it and even checked it again months later.

Sorry to hi-jack the thread. Just wanted to share my thoughts!

[CoastGuardZ]

Roopz, Are you sure you're not driving my Z???

Same here... sounds like some pretty common issues... I'll let you know how mine turn out.

Nate

[ROOPZ]

Roopz, Are you sure you're not driving my Z???

Definitely let me know how things go and what you do. The noises are the main thing I dis-like about my Z. It is still a load of fun but it would be so much more enjoyable if it wasnt so noisy!

[mlc240z]

it's a longshot but if everything else has been checked:

not for a definite suspension clunk but for the acceleration clunk, have you looked at your engine mounts?

i had an older buick that would clunk under acceleration and it turned out to be a motor mount. it was an automatic and fairly easy to check. i opened the hood, stood on brakes, put it in drive and just lightly blipped the gas. if mount is torn, you will visibly see the engine tip up on the bad side. put into reverse to test the opposite side.

it's a little more difficult with a stick. either grow another leg, or be prepared to slightly abuse your clutch.

same procedure, but you'll probably have to just pop the clutch and let the engine die. it should be enough to allow you to see more movement than is acceptable and might reproduce the clunk.

just a wild shot, but if everything else in the rear of the drivetrain is eliminated...........