Electrolytic Rust Removal

[NCLarry]

I can't believe I didn't think of using a drum! That should de-rust your part on all sides at once! Have you eaten through a drum yet?

Do you think? I've been doing the ERR on suspension bits (heavy rust coating) with some good success (see gallery).

I did try wrapping my metal anode around some larger pieces (not touching) and but the rust still didn't break down on all sides. My best guess was the path of least resistance (elecrically) between the anode and the part still ran most current in only one direction... am i missing something?

I'd love to suspend the larger pieces into a metal bucket within a plastic drum and get busy...

[Bambikiller240]

If anybody in or near the East Bay Area of California is interested in large plastic containers for this sort of work, I have access to several 55 gallon and 30 gallon plastic drums.

There is no cost for these drums.

(NO SHIPPING and NO DELIVERY) You have to come and get them.

Send me a PM if you are interested.

[GunnerRob]

Hey Carl, I bet you could sell those drums on eBay and make a fortune!!!

You could call them "deep koy ponds" or "toy storage units for tall kids" or "an empty barrel of monkeys"!

[Bambikiller240]

Win Your Choice of:

"One owner, low mileage Deep Koy Ponds."

"Semi-Transparent Toy Storage Units for Tall Kids"

"Large Barrel of Monkeys" (Monkeys not included)

starting bid = $10.00

[SuperDave]

When I finish de-rusting my pieces and parts, I always have to clean them off with a soapy brush, dry them, and run a wire brush over them. The electrolytic process leaves a black substance that will turn to rust if you don't clean it off. I was wondering what, if anything, they used on your complete car to clean it up.

Below is one of my latest pieces (after I cleaned it up and ready for a coat of primer), a rear control arm.

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<img src="http://www.davesweb.com/houndawg/images/P1030675_640x480.jpg" width="640" height="480">

[hls30.com]

Very Nice!!! Clear coat it!!!

Will

[26th-Z]

I don't know what they use, Dave.

My experience so far has been a little retarded and I have been too busy to set up a rig like yours. I'm going to, though. What happened, was that between the time I took my car to the place and they dipped it, the business was sold and the new owners had trouble with the tanks. Evidently, the old owners ran the business into the ground which is why I waited more than six months to get the car dipped. The heaters for the stripping / cleaning tank broke down and 26th didn't come as clean as it should have. They had trouble with the electrolytic tank as well. Dale was asking me if I knew anything about rheostats and I'm guessing that they are having electrical issues.

The car came clean enough to weld on and I elected to cut and patch while the guys get the tanks back in order. Then 26th gets dipped again after all the metal work is done.

My recollection is that the surface dries to a white powdery finish and somewhat tacky. It protects the metal for about ten days. I'll ask more questions the next time I see those guys.

[SuperDave]

Thanks for the info. White powderly finish? Hmmm. Maybe there is a final bath they give it. Or maybe they blast it with baking soda or something. Would you care to TASTE your car and give me a report?

[26th-Z]

I checked out the tanks, Dave. Sodium hydrochlorate, I'm thinking. And Sodium Cyanide. And Sodium something else. There was a dangerous chemicals tag on the tank and I don't exactly remember. I was surprised. I'm told the dried finish is "like a baking powder". Its not thick enough to look white. Just a few streaks.

The tank uses huge copper plates and the rectifier is the size of a large welding machine. The conductors are about 1". I'll ask more when I go to get the car next week. I had all the welding done and they are dipping it one last time to get it clean.

[LanceM]

26th-Z,

I hope that you are going to use a good epoxy primer when you paint the clean shell. It's the only way to go from where you are starting for the ultimate protection...

[NZeder]

26th-Z,

I hope that you are going to use a good epoxy primer when you paint the clean shell. It's the only way to go from where you are starting for the ultimate protection...

I agree with this. A good epoxy primer is the only way to go. My brother is in the striping business here in NZ (dry striping, using garnett) and he alway recommends to customers to spend the extra $$ on a good epoxy primer. Would not want to do the whole thing again in 10 years time due to rust under the paint due to porus primer.

[26th-Z]

I'll post more pictures and I'll try to get some shots of the tank set-up with the chemical names.

I certainly won't use a BAD epoxy primer, you guys! Here's the wacky plan. Tell me what you think. It's not "original", but everyone I tell seems to smile and think it will work just fine.

The body shell is completely void of anything but metal. The sound insulation is gone. The seam seal caulking is gone. Everything except the plastic coating on the wiring harness tabs that are welded to the body. All the seams are wide open, rust free, and everything is exposed. Even though there is still a lot of body preparation to go, sealing the car up from bare metal is essential. I have about a ten day time frame. So we're going to put the car up on stands with a big sheet of visqueen on the floor. I'm going to mix a thin batch of primer and pour it into a Home Depot pump-up garden sprayer. You know, the ones with the log plastic wands and spray nozzle? I'm going to spray down the inside of the shell; not caring about any mess I make or how sloppy the spray runs down the inside of the channels until the car is literally dripping from the seams. You just shove the wand up in there, hit the trigger and slowly pull the wand out.

In all fairness, 26th-Z lasted 35 years with no protection inside the shell. But that's why I chose this method to get rid of the rust. Its gone - inside and out.