Look at how the fluid has changed with the few parts you have done already. A gallon or two won't get noticed in a storm drain-not that I am saying that is where to put it.Will

I did a quick check and the only docs that mention disposing the solution assure that it's not a disposal problem--in small quantities. But, yes, it is really nasty looking! I hadn't included a good picture of that. Just image a bucket-o-rusty soup and that's what it looks like.

From http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm:

How can I dispose of the solution?

The bath will last until it gets so disgusting that you decide it is time for a fresh one. There is nothing especially nasty about it-it's mildly basic-so disposal is not a concern, except you may not want all the crud in your drains.

From http://www.needlebar.com/restoration/electro/

DISPOSAL

The sodium carbonate solution can be used several times. There are no pollution issues so it can be disposed of any way you wish.

Don't get caught pouring it out with out checking with your local department of water and sewer, they fine first, and ask questions after you can no longer prove the answer-don't ask me how I have this knowledge, I don't remember....

Will

I'd like to ask if you can figure out a way to use electrolytic reversal on wiring? And copnnectors.

'thx

From http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm:

How can I dispose of the solution?

The bath will last until it gets so disgusting that you decide it is time for a fresh one. There is nothing especially nasty about it-it's mildly basic-so disposal is not a concern, except you may not want all the crud in your drains.

From http://www.needlebar.com/restoration/electro/

DISPOSAL

The sodium carbonate solution can be used several times. There are no pollution issues so it can be disposed of any way you wish.

I wouldn't dispose of this in a storm drain. Most Storm Drains lead directly to local lakes, rivers, oceans and the water is not treated in any way. better IMO to pour it down a hosehold drain (diluted) so that it goes to your local water/sewer treatment plant.

And I'm assuming you don't want to even think about doing this for internal engine parts.

I'm think my assumption was wrong. I'm still searching on the net for definitive info, but I have found several web pages where people mention using electrolytic rust removal on their engine. The only concern I can see is hydrogen embrittlement, and none of the web pages I have found mention this as a concern.

I'm thinking about this because I got my block back from hot tanking at the machine shop and I need to remove rust from it and stabalize it. The guy at the machine shop suggested using muriatic acid, but I'm concerned that the acid will also etch away some of the good metal and that it will be hard to neutralize the acid once I'm done. Plus, that muriatic acid (diluted hydrochloric acid) is just plain nasty stuff. The machine shop guy said it I breathed it, I would immediately pass out. Great!

Anyone have a definitive answer as to whether electrolytic rust removal is ok for my block?

Electrolytic rust removal is just fine for blocks, but if you just had it hot tanked, what rust? The reason you can't find anything on the internet about hydrogen embrittlement from the electrolytic process is because there is none. Hydrogen embrittlement comes from acid cleaning processes.

Electrolytic rust removal is just fine for blocks, but if you just had it hot tanked, what rust? The reason you can't find anything on the internet about hydrogen embrittlement from the electrolytic process is because there is none. Hydrogen embrittlement comes from acid cleaning processes.

The block was rusty to begin with. I guess the solven just removed the grease.

Should work real well then.

YOu should look into the Evaporust product. You can now get it in some pads that you put onto the affected area and it takes the rust off. But since you are going to immerse the item, you could just bip it in evaporust and it would get the rust off that way.

http://www.orisonmarketing.com/corrosion/evaporust/evapo-rust.html

YOu should look into the Evaporust product.

Let's see...Evaporust at $22 per gallon. To submerge an L24 long block...roughly 30 gallons.

Electrolytic rust conversion...maybe $1 worth of washing soda. Hmmm...which to choose.

There's your answer! Turns out an L24 fits perfectly in a 30 gallon garbage can! I'll get you some after pictures in a few days.

It looks like you didn't read the product description through. IYou can now get pads that have thte liquid in it so you can apply it to area too big to submerge.

So, in addition to $1 of soda, you need a power supply, electrode(s) and you don't even know if it will work right until you practice on smaller items first.

You better make sure the can doesn't turn into an electrode and dissolve. Maybe try a plastic container?

LOOK.

READ.

It looks like you didn't read the product description through. IYou can now get pads that have thte liquid in it so you can apply it to area too big to submerge.

So, in addition to $1 of soda, you need a power supply, electrode(s) and you don't even know if it will work right until you practice on smaller items first.

You better make sure the can doesn't turn into an electrode and dissolve. Maybe try a plastic container?

LOOK.

READ.

No, I didn't see the Evaporust patch pads. How much are they? I couldn't find them on their order page.

Yes, I have practiced on smaller items first--it will work. OK, you are right--you have to have a battery charger ($25 or so?), electrode(s) ($5 maybe). Evaporust's product comparison chart says you need $60,000 to do electrolysis. That must be some fancy battery charger!

My garbage can is plastic. I don't think there's a chance it will turn into an electrode and dissolve.