I was looking at the swaybar links that came with my Energy Suspensions Urethane kit, and noticed that the distance between the washers is greater than the factory pieces. This looks like it would effectively pre-load the swaybar. Any thoughts?

I cleaned up a set of factory links, so I could use them instead of those supplied with the kit.

I am at a quandry over which would be better to use, authentic pieces or third party.

Will

Here's a good link for sway bar bushing install showing the replacement with a larger bar. IMO one of the reasons for the size difference is the age of your bushings.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/swaybar/index.html

As stated in the article you will be pleased with the new tightness of your car's handling with bushing replacement. I have a picture in my gallery of my new steering rack and sway bar upgrade in my 75 280Z.

LARRY

Thanks for the article, but the reason for the differences actually has nothing to do with the old bushings, one of the pictures inthe article you provided the link for shows that the difference is due to the spacer (provided by Energy Suspensions) is not as long as the distance between the shoulders on the factory piece. I have used Urethane bushings before-the single kit did not come with new hardware, only bushings, and that is the real reason for my question.

Will

Maybe it's intended as part of the package, in order to keep the chassis from even starting to roll over? (like you said, a preload being applied?)

Carl,

That could be. What really made me question is the fact you can buy just the bushings, or the bushings and the links(the bushings in either case are the same). either way must be acceptable-I guess an email to energy suspensions couldn't hurt.

Will

Let us know what you find out.

A preload can only be applied if one link is longer than the other. The difference in lenght between old and new links only affects where end of bar rests. Use the new ones.

Dave:

:stupid: Duh, that makes sense (now that I think about it and read up on it a little bit)

Is there any benefit or detriment to using one or the other? Just wondering why you say to use the new ones.

I understand the geometry of your answer, but, If the bar is deflected(harder to get on the freaking link), would that not be evidence that it has been preloaded? More work required to get it where it was(but an inch further) means something had to change-unless I have misunderstood Newtons third law-or applied it incorrectly. If nothing else changed, same bar, same mounts, same car-only new bushings-what am I missing?

I will go back and check every inch for binding or something misplaced acting as a pivot.

Will

Will, the bar is not "deflected" to fit longer or shorter links. The bar only rotates in sway bar bushings. The new bar bushings may be tight, but the bar can (and must) rotate.

Carl, use the new drop links because of the urethane verses rubber. The stock rubber links have more compliance (can be compressed more during assembly, and during use) than the urethane. More compliance means that suspension will rise (opposite side will drop) before encountering the resistence of the sway bar. Less complance means more direct function of sway bar.

Tighten both links so that distance from end washer to end washer is same for both sides. Tighten so that inner washer to end washer is the same (4 places). This assures no preload on un-tweaked chassis. Another method is to count the turns of the nut on each of the four ends with a vise grip keeping the shaft from turning.

If you attach one side and find other control arm is lower, then realize that nothing requires both front struts/shocks/springs to droop equally. At full droop your suspension is way outside it's designed functional range of movement. Just jack the control arm up to attach link.

Carl, use the new drop links because of the urethane verses rubber. The stock rubber links have more compliance (can be compressed more during assembly, and during use) than the urethane. More compliance means that suspension will rise (opposite side will drop) before encountering the resistence of the sway bar. Less complance means more direct function of sway bar

Dave:

I understand all that but you could just use the PU on the stock links. That's what I have on the car now. (Just bought a set S/T bushings (only) at the local CSK store)

In a previous Z I replaced the links when I went to a 1" bar and it was extremely difficult to get it all mounted due to the difference in length of the new links, so I ended up using the old links with the new (PU) bushings, I can't remember if the new links were longer or shorter than the OE units. (It was a Quickor Engineering 1" bar and links)

I found the problem, a large nut (no, not me) had fallen between the the bar and the chassis just outboard of a side bend, a drip of old undercoating(I used a torch to remove it) held to nut in place, and that was the new pivot-thanks for the help. The geometry made sence, but the actual situation had the geomerty out.

Will